Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Rhododendron alabamense

Alabama Azalea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 6A to 9A

Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Growth rate Slow

Form Oval and upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Provide this plant with excellent drainage and organic soil. It is not salt tolerant or drought tolerant and does not do well to sweeping winter winds. Rhododendrons are ornamental, ericaceous, broad-leaved evergreens. They grow best in shade or partial shade. A south or southwest exposure increases the chance of winter injury to evergreen types when grown in northern climates.
Plant in an acid, moist, well-drained soil with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5. Flowers are said to be fragrant but I (Dr. Gilman) can smell nothing from this flower. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. Foliage from most members of this genus is considered poisonous when ingested.

Transplanting balled and burlapped or potted plants is most successful. The shallow root systems are easily injured by deep cultivation but benefit from mulching. Remove the old flower clusters as the flowers fade. Plants fail to absorb iron and have yellow leaves with green veins if the soil is not sufficiently acid. Finely ground sulphur can be added to the soil to increase acidity. Have the soil tested before planting in order to determine the pH. Apply a 2:1:1 N:P:K ratio fertilizer two or three times each year before and after bloom and perhaps again as plants enter dormancy - timing is not as critical as previously believed. Prevent winter burn in northern climates by avoiding exposed planting sites and by shading during winter.

Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Franklinia alatamaha

Franklin Tree, Franklinia

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 5A to 8A

Height 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Slow

Form Pyramidal and rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Like most trees, Franklin Tree grows best in well-drained, acid soil, with plenty of water, and partial sun, at least in the southern part of its range. Drainage should be excellent and the tree does not tolerate clay soil that drains poorly. Supply plenty of organic matter to the area before planting for best growth. Although I (Dr. Gilman)have seen plants growing in Philadelphia in full sun with no irrigation, it is best to provide a permanent irrigation system for Franklin Tree. If this is impractical, at least spread mulch out to the edge of the canopy so roots can expand with no competition from other plants.
This is an excellent small tree native to Georgia, reaching a maximum of 30 feet but it is usually smaller in a sunny landscape. Since the late 1700s, these trees can no longer be found in the wild.
Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.
Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.
In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

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Thank You

Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Hamamelis x intermedia 'Jelena'

Witchhazel

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 6A to 8A

Height 15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m

Spread 15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m

Growth rate Average

Form Spreading or horizontal

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Orange

Bloom Time Spring and Winter

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Jelena should be grown in full sun or partial shade on well-drained, moist, acid soils. Nice specimens can be found in clay soils, even those which dry out for a period of time in the summer. Pruning should be completed after flowering and by late spring to ensure next year's flower buds are not removed. Pollen can cause slight to mild allergy symptoms.

Maintain adequate mulch areaClear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Perennial Of The Day

Argyranthemum frutescens syn. Chrysanthemum frutescens

White Marguerite

Type Perennial

Hardy range 9A to 11

Height 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Summer
The flowers are showy.

Environment This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.
Leaf Color Green

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes The beautiful daisy-like flowers of this plant are abundant, and they last for an extended period of time.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

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Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Acer saccharum 'Commemoration'

Sugar Maple, Hard Maple, Rock Maple

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 5A to 8A

Height 50' to 65' / 15.20m to 19.80m

Spread 40' to 50' / 12.20m to 15.20m

Growth rate Average

Form Oval and rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Green

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange and red

Culture Notes Growing in full sun or shade, Sugar Maple will tolerate a wide variety of soil types (except compacted soil) but is not salt-tolerant. Established trees look better when given some irrigation during dry weather, particularly in the south. In the south, many leaves remain in the central portion of the canopy for much of the winter, giving the tree a somewhat unkempt appearance.
Sugar Maples are not recommended for the Dallas area, in many cases due to alkaline soils causing chlorosis. Sensitivity to compaction, heat, drought and road salt limit usage of Sugar Maple for urban street plantings, but it is still recommended for parks and other areas away from roads where soil is loose and well-drained. Acer nigrum, a similar species, is more tolerant of heat and drought. `Commemoration' has brilliant fall color and grows fast. This cultivar is a good performer in the south. Trees are considered fairly good compartmentalizers of decay.
Maintain adequate mulch area.
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Halesia tetraptera syn. Halesia carolina

Carolina Silverbell, Common Silverbell

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 4B to 8B

Height 25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m

Spread 35' to 50' / 10.60m to 15.20m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded, upright or erect and vase shaped

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Yellow

This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes An understory tree best suited for a partially shaded or shaded location, Silverbell prefers moist, fertile soil with an accumulation of leaf litter and/or mulch. Water the tree during a drought and avoid compacted soil. It is a splendid small tree to locate near a patio or deck. Like other Halesia this tree survives transplanting from a field nursery poorly but of coarse can be planted from containers with ease. Many trees reported to be tough to transplant have simply not be grown with modern root pruning and other state-of-the-art production techniques. Trees in the forest can live for 100 years.

Containers designed to minimize root circling would be the best to use. Perhaps regular root pruning in the field (twice each year) would help field grown trees survive transplanting. Trees transplanted in spring reportedly survive better than fall transplants. Trees were known as H. carolina but are now known as H. tetraptera. You may come across a pink flowered form known as 'Arnold's Pink'.

Wood is considered diffuse porous meaning that there is little difference in size of pores between spring and summer wood. Pollen causes slight allergy symptoms.
Maintain adequate mulch areaClear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Perennial Of The Day

Lupinus polyphyllus 'My Castle'

Lupine

Type Perennial

Hardy range 3A to 8A

Height 24" to 5' / 60cm to 1.60m

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Summer

  

The flowers are fragrant, showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.


Leaf Color Green

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Lupines prefer a cool area in full or partial sun. In areas with hot summers, they should be grown as short lived perennials. These plants do not like to be transplanted and may need staking. Although this plant does have some purported cosmetic benefits, it should be noted that the raw seed of some species is toxic when ingested.

Lupinus polyphyllus

Lupine

Type Perennial

Hardy range 5A to 9A

Height 24" to 5' / 60cm to 1.60m

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color Blue, orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.


Leaf Color Green
Environment This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Lupines prefer a cool area in full or partial sun. In areas with hot summers, they should be grown as short lived perennials. These plants do not like to be transplanted and may need staking. Although this plant does have some purported cosmetic benefits, it should be noted that the raw seed of some species is toxic when ingested.

Lupinus polyphyllus 'Russell Hybrid'

Lupine

Type Perennial

Hardy range 3A to 6A

Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Fast

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue, orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Lupines prefer a cool area in full or partial sun. In areas with hot summers, they should be grown as short lived perennials. These plants do not like to be transplanted and may need staking. Although this plant does have some purported cosmetic benefits, it should be noted that the raw seed of some species is toxic when ingested.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.
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Annual Of The Day

Corydalis aurea

Corydalis

Type Annual, biennial

Height 16" to 24" / 40cm to 60cm

Growth rate Average

Form Irregular or sprawling

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color Yellow

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture NotesCorydalis plants are noted for their beautiful foliage and spurred, tubular flowers.

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Perennial Of The Day

Aster novae-angliae 'Alma Potschke'

New England Aster

Type Perennial

Hardy range 4A to 9A

Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Spread 18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Full sun

Bloom Color Pink

Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment This plant tolerates occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green

Culture Notes Tolerates wet soils. The larger plants may require staking to maintain their form. If pinched until mid July, the plants will be heavier blooming and probably will not need staking. The deep pink blossoms of 'Alma Potschke' continue well into the fall months. Spring cut dead foliage only; after blooming, deadhead spent flowers. It's best to fall cut this plant to 12". It can be cut back by 1/2 to 1/3 in early to mid June, however, to improve the overall shape of the plant. Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

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Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima'

Red Chokeberry

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 4B to 9A

Height 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Growth rate Average

Form Oval

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes 'Brilliantissima' received a Gold Medal from the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society for 2000. Spreading by seeds and suckers, Chokeberry transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and is very hardy. Attractive in borders and clumps, Chokeberry thrives in moist soil but will tolerate dry soils in sun or partial shade, also growing in coastal areas. Chokeberry is much prized for natural landscapes due to its easy care and the popularity of the berries to wildlife. Can tolerate wet soil along ditch banks and other tough spots. Plants serve as hosts for butterfly larvae.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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Evergreen Annual Of The Day

Tropaeolum majus

Nasturtium, Indian Cress

Type Annual

Height 18" to 30" / 45cm to 75cm

Growth rate Fast

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Orange and yellow

Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are fragrant and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Habit of this plant can be either mounding or trailing. Nasturtium is easily grown, prefers full sun, tolerates poor soil and dry conditions. Propagate by seeds directly sown or by sowing under glass in early spring. Will bloom throughout summer in cooler areas only. The foliage stays fresh looking provided the plants receive some afternoon shade, and looks best when provided with occasional irrigation when the weather gets dry.

Nasturtium has several interesting benefits. Because it attracts aphids, it could prove beneficial in the garden, planted next to weaker plants, to protect them from these troublesome pests. It also has several culinary and purported medicinal uses. For example, fresh or dried Nasturtium leaves can be used as a peppery flavoring (although it's quite strong) in sandwiches and salads. Many believe this plant also helps prevent colds, relieves itching and soothes the scalp.


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Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Nerium oleander

Oleander, Rose Bay

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 9A to 11

Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Fast

Form Rounded and vase shaped

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Orange, pink, red, white and yellow

Bloom Time Year 'round

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Oleander tolerates poor soil and drought well and is often planted near the coast. It can even grow in slightly brackish water but needs all day full sun for best growth, form and flowering. Plants in containers tolerate moderately-high soil salt solutions up to about 6 mmhos/cm according to the saturated media extract method. However, the plant is poisonous.

There are probably more than 400 cultivars available at various places.
Tolerance to urban conditions makes it well suited for planting in highway medians where it can be planted and forgotten - probably best for this usage. It grows vigorously following wet weather, slowing down in drought, but always seems to look good even in very dry soil. Oleander is one of the easiest shrubs to care for, getting by with one or two fertilizations each year and only needing irrigation to become established in the eastern part of the US. Occasional irrigation in the western US helps plants pull through the hot, dry summer periods.

Sometimes suckers produced at the base of the plant will siphon off too much energy and flowering will be inhibited. These suckers should be pulled to remove them when they are young and succulent. Plants can be grown as shrubs, standards or trees, and flowers come in a variety of colors. Oleander caterpillars can be very troublesome. All parts of the plant are extremely poisonous if ingested. Prevent children from ingesting this plant.

Use as a street tree This plant can be grown as a multi-trunk tree for use in highway median strips and in landscapes, or can be used as a street tree where there is not a need for tall-vehicle clearance beneath the crown. The small stature and low, spreading, branching habit makes pruning for vehicular clearance difficult unless it is properly trained from an early age to develop one main trunk. The effort required initially to train this tree for street tree use, however, may be offset by its advantages.

Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.



Thank You