Beechwood Landscape Architecture and Construction

Scotch Heather, Evergreen Shrub, woody plant of The Day

2012-01-19T10:30:00.000-08:00

Calluna vulgaris 'County Wicklow'
Scotch Heather

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5A to 8A

Height 8" to 24" / 20cm to 60cm

Spread 12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm

Growth rate Slow

Form Rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Pink

Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment

This plant tolerates drought.

This plant will grow in very dry soil.

Suitable soil is sandy.

The pH preference is an acidic (less than 6.8) soil.

Leaf Color Green

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes

These plants prefer acid soils and sharp drainage. The foliage on Callunas can be silver, yellow, and various hues of green. Often these will take on a different appearance in the winter. Winter may cause damage and plants may benefit from protection using pine boughs. Plant with: Dwarf Hollies, Chamaecyparis, Iberis, Phlox subulata, and Thymus sp.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Eastern Arborvitae, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

2012-01-19T04:53:00.000-08:00

Thuja occidentalis 'Chalet'
Eastern Arborvitae, American Arborvitae, Siberian Arborvitae, Northern White Cedar, White Cedar

Type Tree, woody plant
Hardy range 3A to 7B
Height 20' to 30' / 6.00m to 9.20m
Spread 8' to 12' / 2.40m to 3.60m
Growth rate Slow
Form Oval and pyramidal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Time Spring

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought, flooding and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry to wet or submerged soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes

Transplanting is moderately easy if plants are root-pruned and either balled and burlapped or potted. White-Cedar likes high humidity and tolerates wet soils and some drought, but not salt exposure of any kind. The foliage turns brownish in winter, especially on cultivars with colored foliage and on exposed sites open to the wind. Many of the natural stands in the United States have been cut. Some remain in isolated areas along rivers throughout the East. Foliage is light green.
Foliage turns brown with the onset of cold winter temperatures. Some of the cultivars retain their green foliage well into winter.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Be sure to clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line (the edge of the branches), especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Flowering Crabapple, Deciduous Tree, woody plant of The Day

2012-01-18T07:27:00.000-08:00

Malus x 'Adams'
Crabapple, Flowering Crabapple

Type   Tree, woody plant
Hardy range   4A to 8A
Height   15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Spread   15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m
Growth rate   Average
Form   Rounded
Exposure   Full sun
Persistence   Deciduous

Bloom Color   Pink
Bloom Time   Spring

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color   Green
Fall Color   Red

Culture Notes
Crabapple is well-adapted to compacted urban soil and is somewhat tolerate of salt-spray. Well adapted to all areas within its hardiness zone range. Very adaptable tree. Do not over-fertilize since this could increase the incidence of disease and stimulate sprouting. Select only from disease-resistant cultivars such as this one.

Crabapples are not extremely drought tolerant and are not well suited for high pH soil. Crabapples are best grown in a sunny location with good air circulation and have no particular soil preferences, except soil should be well-drained. Root pruned trees transplant most easily. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. This plant is reported to be sensitive to soil salts.

The fruit of this cultivar is effective from July into December. Fruit can mummify on the tree and remain for up to three years. Fruit is 5/8 inches. Mid to late bloomer. Overall, this cultivar is slightly to moderately susceptible to diseases.

Use as a street tree

This plant can be grown as a multi-trunk tree for use in highway median strips and in landscapes, or can be used as a street tree where there is not a need for tall-vehicle clearance beneath the crown. The small stature and low, spreading, branching habit makes pruning for vehicular clearance difficult unless it is properly trained from an early age to develop one main trunk. The effort required initially to train this tree for street tree use, however, may be offset by its advantages.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become established quickly and keep plants healthier. Train and prune the trunks and branches so they will not touch each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark, or those that are likely to develop it, as soon as possible. This reduces the likelihood of splitting from the tree later, when the tree has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of flowers. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located. Flowers develop from buds formed the previous year.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Japanese Umbrella Pine, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

2012-01-18T05:10:00.000-08:00

Sciadopitys verticillata

Japanese Umbrella Pine, Umbrella Pine

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 7A

Height 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Slow

Form Pyramidal

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes

The Japanese Umbrella pine was chosen as a 1991 Gold Medal Plant by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society for being a plant of exceptional merit, but underused in landscaping. Some shade in mid-day produces the best plants in the southern part of its range. The orange, peeling bark on older plants is quite attractive but is usually hidden by the foliage. Provide a moist, acidic soil and protection from the wind. Most trees in gardens are small due to the slow growth rate but there is one report of a tree more than 100 years old.
'Wintergreen' stays green even in the coldest of winters. 'Joe Kozey' has a narrow canopy.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Heather 'Mediterranean White', Shrub, woody plant of The Day

2012-01-17T12:40:00.000-08:00

Erica x darleyensis 'Mediterranean White'
Heath, Cape Heath, Heather

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    6A to 9A
Height    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Spread    18" to 36" / 45cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring and Winter

The flowers are suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green

Culture Notes
Considered a small shrub, Cape Heath is identified by its needle-like foliage and small bell-shaped flowers. Harsh winters may damage this plant severely, so protection is needed in the colder zones. Avoid wet, heavy soil. Heather is considered poisonous when eaten. Pollen causes mild allergy.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Red Hellebore, Perennial Of The Day

2012-01-17T05:24:00.000-08:00

Helleborus atrorubens

Red Hellebore

Type Perennial

Hardy range 4A to 9A

Height 18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm

Growth rate Slow

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Full shade to partial sun
Bloom Color Red
Bloom Time Winter

Environment This plant will grow in moist soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy. The pH preference is a neutral soil.
Leaf Color Green
The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Culture Notes Keep new plants moist until they are established. This plant is slow to increase and does not like to be transplanted.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Beechwood Landscape Lights Up Times Square

2012-01-05T05:54:00.000-08:00

NJASLA 2012 Annual Meeting and Expo

2012-01-05T05:12:00.000-08:00

Angie’s List Super Service Award

2012-01-04T04:58:00.000-08:00

Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC

Earns Coveted Angie’s List Super Service Award

Award reflects businesses’ consistently high level of customer service

Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC

has been awarded the prestigious 2011 Angie’s List Super Service Award, an honor bestowed annually on approximately 5 percent of all the businesses rated on the nation’s leading provider of consumer reviews on local service and health providers.

“Only a fraction of the businesses rated on Angie’s List can claim the sterling service record of being a Super Service Award winner because we set a high bar,” said Angie’s List Founder Angie Hicks. “The fact that Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC’’

can claim Super Service Award status speaks volumes about its dedication to consumers.”

Angie’s List Super Service Award winners have met strict eligibility requirements including earning a minimum number of reports, an exemplary rating from their clients and abiding by Angie’s List operational guidelines.

Ratings are updated daily on Angie’s List, but members can find the 2011 Super Service Award logo next to business names in search results on AngiesList.com.

###

Angie’s List collects consumer reviews on local contractors and doctors in more than 500 service categories. Currently, more than 2 million consumers across the U.S. rely on Angie’s List to help them make the best hiring decisions. Members get unlimited access to local ratings via Internet or phone, exclusive discounts, the Angie’s List magazine and help from the Angie’s List complaint resolution service. Take a quick tour of Angie’s List and view the latest Angie’s List news.

Leyland Cypress, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

2011-12-28T04:44:00.000-08:00

X Cupressocyparis leylandii

Leyland Cypress

Type Tree, woody plant
Hardy range 6A to 10A
Height 25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Fast
Form Columnar, oval and pyramidal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought and salt well. This plant will grow in dry soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Blue and green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Leyland Cypress grows in full sun on a wide range of soils, from acid to alkaline, but looks its best and stays most healthy on moderately fertile soil with sufficient moisture near the coast. It is tolerant of pretty severe pruning. The plant appears to recover after the entire top half of the plant is removed. It grows well in clay soil and tolerates poor drainage for only a short period of time. It also is very tolerant of salt spray. Often used as a Christmas tree. Pollen can cause significant allergy.
It is short lived in many landscapes throughout the US due to a fungus canker disease. Some trees last just about 10-20 years in the eastern and western US, then branches begin to die from canker disease. Other plantings appear to do fine, at least for a while. Mature plants are susceptible to blowing over in strong winds due to a poor root system. Since this Leyland Cypress is so susceptible to disease, consider substituting with the native eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana or J. silicicola), 'Hogan' western redcedar (Thuja plicata), incense-cedar, 'Green Giant' Thuja, or 'Nigra' or Techny' Thuja occidentalis.
Plants do not appear to have much of a root system. 'Irish Mint' is reported by Jim Berry to have a better root system.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Coastal Leucothoe, Evergreen Ground Cover Of The Day

2011-12-07T05:08:00.000-08:00

Leucothoe axillaris

Coastal Dog Hobble, Coastal Leucothoe

Type Groundcover, woody plant
Hardy range 4B to 8A
Height 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Average
Form Prostrate and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Full shade to partial sun
Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Pink and white
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are fragrant.

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes

This graceful and informal shrub may grow 2 to 4 feet in height and may spread 6 to 10 feet. Its arching stoloniferous stems support large, glossy, evergreen leaves. These dark green leaves turn to a purple-green color in the winter. The April flowers of Coastal Leucothoe are very small and occur in bell-shaped racemes. These flowers are white or pinkish-white and are borne in the leaf axils. The fruits of this shrub are inconspicuous capsules.
Coastal Leucothoe is outstanding in masses and is a good choice for enclosed city gardens. It is commonly used in the landscape as a specimen, ground cover, and border plant. This shrub is also impressive when naturalized along wooded stream banks.
Coastal Leucothoe should be grown in a partially or densely shaded site. It grows best in areas that receive morning sunlight and in moist, acidic, soil containing high organic matter and silt. Plants grown in full sun appear to suffer unless provided with regular irrigation in dry weather. This plant is a good choice for shaded, moist to occasionally wet sites. Soil should not be continually wet but should drain well after rain. This plant can be rejuvenated into vigorous growth in the center of the plant if the 2 and 3 year old canes are removed after bloom. All parts of the plant may be poisonous if ingested.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Chinese Fringe Bush, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

2011-12-06T04:40:00.000-08:00

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Burgundy'

Chinese Fringe Bush

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 7A to 10A

Height 12' to 20' / 3.60m to 6.00m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Purple
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Fringebush prefers an acid soil pH and a mostly sunny position in the landscape. Its small size makes it well suited for planting in back of a shrub border or for use as a small tree near the patio. Mass several together to make a dramatic statement and a nice, delicate flower show. It can be trained into a nice espalier. Plant may be listed as a cultivar of the variety rubrum.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Montauk Daisy, Deciduous Perennial of The Day

2011-11-30T05:17:00.000-08:00

Nipponanthemum nipponicum

syn. Chrysanthemum nipponicum
Montauk Daisy, Nippon Daisy

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    5A to 9A
Height    24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Spread    24" to 30" / 60cm to 75cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are fragrant, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green
This plant has attractive foliage and fragrant foliage.

Culture Notes
Depending on your area, this plant may need pinching until mid-July to produce good blooms or staking to maintain form, so check with your local nursery for the specific care of your plant. The dormant buds will emerge from the woody cane in the spring, so do not cut this stem in the late fall. Cuttings should be taken in the spring. Montauk Daisy is a shrubby perennial with thick, fairly succulent leaves. Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Pests, Diseases and Damaging Agents
Pests: Beetles, borers, caterpillars, cut worms, galls, leaf hoppers, leaf miners, leaf nematodes, mealybugs, scales, slugs, thrips, weevils, whiteflies, red spider mites and aphids.

Diseases: Blights, crown gall, leaf spots, powdery mildew, wilts, rots and rust.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Weeping Canadian Hemlock, Evergreen Tree of The Day

2011-11-30T04:53:00.000-08:00

Tsuga canadensis 'Pendula'

Canadian Hemlock, Eastern Hemlock

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    4A to 7A
Height    50' to 75' / 15.20m to 22.80m
Spread    25' to 35' / 7.60m to 10.60m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Weeping
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color Green and yellow
Bloom Time Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Hemlock transplants well balled-in-burlap due to a branched root system and will grow in moderately dry or moist, acidic soil but prefers moist, well-drained sites. Trees are often found in shaded ravines in their native habitat growing where roots have ready access to moisture. However, root rot and bark splitting are common on sites which are constantly wet. Some die-back can be expected after transplanting if irrigation is not managed just right. Many people have success locating the plants on a slight mound several inches above surrounding soil to help roots become established. Be especially careful not to plant trees any deeper than they were at the nursery. The top-most root in the root ball should be within an inch or two of the soil surface.

Despite its like for shaded landscapes, plants grow well in full sun in the middle and northern part of their range provided there is plenty of open soil for root expansion. This is not a tree to plant in a lawn in competition with turf unless a large area of mulch is maintained around the tree. Nitrogen fertilizer applications should be kept to a minimum to help keep insect attacks from woolly adelgid in check; these insects kill trees. This is the state tree of Pennsylvania. National champion is 165 x 38 feet in Tennessee.

Plants grown in full shade will be thin and will not produce the screening effect so characteristic of Hemlock in full sun or partial shade. This is a picky plant but well worth the extra effort to cultivate it. Canadian Hemlock is tolerant of shearing and can be used for large or small, sheared screens. Unfortunately, infestations of woolly adelgid have been severe in New England and in the mid-Atlantic states and this may limit their use in these areas.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Spring transplanting best

Balled-and-burlapped and bare root trees recover best when transplanted in late winter or early spring in the cooler portions of North America. This usually corresponds to the initiation of root growth.

Pests, Diseases and Damaging Agents
Pests: Woolly adelgid, scales, weevils, bagworm, mites, sapsucker

woodpecker, loopers. Woolly adelgid and scale infestations can devastate a planting and kills many trees in their native habitat and in landscapes in the mid-Atlantic states and in other places. Insects increase in number on plants fertilized with too much nitrogen.

Diseases: Needle rust, cankers, non-parasitic bark splitting on heavy, poorly drained soil.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Korean Angelica, Biennial, perennial of The Day

2011-11-18T08:45:00.000-08:00

Angelica gigas
Korean Angelica, Purple Parsnip

Type    Biennial, perennial
Hardy range    4A to 8B
Height    5' to 6' / 1.60m to 1.80m
Spread    36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color Purple
Bloom Time Summer and Fall

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
In cooler zones, angelica should be grown in full sun; warmer climates allow for partial shade. These plants actually die off after flowering and the production of seeds. Dead-heading spent blossoms will not only discourage the production of seeds, but may extend the plant's life. A. gigas grows 5-6 feet tall, has divided leaves and burgundy-red blossoms and stalks. Often listed as a biennial, it is at the very best a short-lived perennial. A. gigas does best when grown in partial shade.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Lawson's Cypress, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

2011-11-16T04:57:00.000-08:00

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Minima Aurea'

Lawson's Cypress, Oregon Cedar, Port Orford Cedar

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 7B

Height 8' to 15' / 2.40m to 4.60m

Spread 6' to 12' / 1.80m to 3.60m

Growth rate Slow

Form Oval and upright or erect

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Blue and red

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Lawson's Cypress is best suited for large landscapes such as parks, golf courses, and large industrial or commercial landscapes. Species will soar to 150-200 feet tall in its native habitat but will never come close to this height in a planted landscape. The dense, symmetrical growth habit make it ideally suited as a tall screen in a sunny spot protected from strong wind.
It has picky cultural requirements and should be grown in full sun in moist, well-drained soil in areas of moderate to high humidity, and preferably where the trees can be protected from winds. These sites may be hard to find in the East; but the trees grow nicely in the Pacific northwest. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reactions in certain people.
Tree establishment specifications
Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.
Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.
In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.