Enkianthus perulatus 'J. L. Pennock'
White Enkianthus
White Enkianthus
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 6A to 7B
Height 5' to 10' / 1.60m to 3.00m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 6A to 7B
Height 5' to 10' / 1.60m to 3.00m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color White and yellow
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are showy.
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.
Fall Color Orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.
Culture Notes
Enkianthus are ornamental, ericaceous deciduous shrubs or small trees. They grow best in full sun to partial shade. Plant in an acid, moist, well-drained soil with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5. Transplanting balled and burlapped or potted plants is most successful. The shallow root systems are easily injured by deep cultivation but benefit from mulching. Plants fail to absorb iron and have yellow leaves with green veins if the soil is not sufficiently acid. Finely ground sulphur can be added to the soil to increase acidity. Have the soil tested before planting in order to determine the pH.
I (Dr. Gilman) have seen plants in wonderful red fall color make a striking statement in the landscape. Their twisted multiple trunks form a nice small tree effect when some of the secondary branches are removed from the lower part of the plant.
Maintain adequate mulch area
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Enkianthus are ornamental, ericaceous deciduous shrubs or small trees. They grow best in full sun to partial shade. Plant in an acid, moist, well-drained soil with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5. Transplanting balled and burlapped or potted plants is most successful. The shallow root systems are easily injured by deep cultivation but benefit from mulching. Plants fail to absorb iron and have yellow leaves with green veins if the soil is not sufficiently acid. Finely ground sulphur can be added to the soil to increase acidity. Have the soil tested before planting in order to determine the pH.
I (Dr. Gilman) have seen plants in wonderful red fall color make a striking statement in the landscape. Their twisted multiple trunks form a nice small tree effect when some of the secondary branches are removed from the lower part of the plant.
Maintain adequate mulch area
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.