Poinsettia, Christmas Flower, Shrub, Woody Plant of The Day

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Winter Rose'
    Poinsettia,  Christmas Flower,  Christmas Star,  Mexican Flameleaf,  Lobster Plant,  Painted Leaf

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    9A to 10B
Height    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Spread    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Winter

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Unlike most Euphorbias, this plant is non-succulent and not considered poisonous.  Grow in a porous well-drained media.  Fertilize regularly during periods of active growth.  Cut back plant by 2/3 after flowering.  Water sparingly during winter months, periods of low light levels, or when leaf drop is noticed.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Nandina Domestica, Evergreen Shrub of The Day

Nandina domestica
    Heavenly Bamboo

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    6B to 9B
Height    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread    12" to 36" / 30cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
Fall Color    Red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
With bamboo-like stalks and delicate, fern-like foliage, Nandina is much-prized for its oriental effect and distinctive appearance.  Adding to its appeal are large, erect panicles of creamy white flowers in spring followed by decorative bright red berries in fall and winter.  Berries are eaten by a variety of birds and this can spread the plant to neighbors yards.  Nandina spreads slowly by underground stems, providing attractive clumps for entryways, containers, or as specimen plantings in a ground cover.  They also add an accent to the front of a shrub border when planted in groups or clumps.  Plant on 2 to 3 foot centers for a mass planting, farther for a more open effect.

Nandina in partial shade will exhibit richer-colored red fall foliage than if planted in the sun.  Foliage diseases will be less in full sun.  Although tolerant of drought once established, rich soil and ample moisture will produce a lusher, better-looking plant.  Plants survive with neglect, although regular fertilization encourages growth and thicker plants.  Plants have been reported as invasive into selected natural areas in Florida and other southern states.

Nandina is a low maintenance shrub, requiring only one pruning each year to control plant height, if needed.  The tallest canes should be trimmed to the ground or to different heights in early spring to reduce the size.  This will provide for more foliage toward the ground and promote a denser plant.  Recent selections have produced several dwarf cultivars, and although most of these do not flower and fruit, they do produce vividly-colored fall foliage and can be used as a ground cover. Some are nicer than others.

Dwarf cultivars available include:  `Atropurpurea Nana' is a rather ugly, reddish plant; `Compacta', purplish winter color, 4 feet tall; `Firepower', red to maroon fall foliage, 2 feet tall, virus free which gives it superior foliage; `Gulfstream', reddish-bronze fall foliage, 4 feet tall, upright habit, suckers from the base; `Harbor Dwarf', bronze fall foliage, 1.5 to 2 feet tall; `Moonbay' and `Nana Purpurea', both are rounded and spread, and they have red fall foliage and are 1.5 to 2.5 feet tall; and `Woods Dwarf', red to maroon fall foliage, 1.5 feet tall.  The dwarf cultivar `Lowboy' flowers and produces red berries, reaches 3 feet in height, and has red fall foliage. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Leyland Cypress, Evergreen Tree, Woody Plant of The Day

X Cupressocyparis leylandii 'Haggerston Gray'
    Leyland Cypress

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    6A to 10A
Height    25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread    15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Columnar, oval and pyramidal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Leyland Cypress grows in full sun on a wide range of soils, from acid to alkaline, but looks its best on moderately fertile soil with sufficient moisture.  It is surprisingly tolerant of severe pruning, recovering nicely from even severe topping (although this is not recommended), even when half the top is removed.  It grows well in clay soil and tolerates poor drainage for a short period of time.  It also is very tolerant of salt spray.  It is short lived in many landscapes due to a fungus disease.

Trees should be grown with one leader to prevent damage from snow and ice. Severe damage has occurred in trees grown with two or more leaders. Little pruning is required to form a well-structured tree since the trunk grows more-or-less straight and branches usually form wide angles with the trunk. Branches are typically small in diameter, helping them form a strong attachment to the tree, and formation of included bark appears less likely than on many other trees. Maintaining a single leader helps prevent splitting of the trunk in ice storms and other storms. Do this by removing or cutting back leaders than compete with the one you have chosen to become the main leader.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Chinese Fringe Bush, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Burgundy'

Chinese Fringe Bush

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 7A to 10A

Height 12' to 20' / 3.60m to 6.00m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Purple
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Fringebush prefers an acid soil pH and a mostly sunny position in the landscape. Its small size makes it well suited for planting in back of a shrub border or for use as a small tree near the patio. Mass several together to make a dramatic statement and a nice, delicate flower show. It can be trained into a nice espalier. Plant may be listed as a cultivar of the variety rubrum.

Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Inkberry Holly, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Ilex glabra 'Ivory Queen'

Gallberry Holly, Inkberry Holly

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5A to 10A

Height 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Slow

Form Oval and vase shaped

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought, flooding and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to wet or submerged soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
This clump-forming, evergreen shrub is valued for its foliage and fruits. The lustrous, dark green leaves may have a few obtuse teeth toward the leaf apex or they may have entire margins. They are obovate to oblanceolate in shape and may reach a length of 3/4 to 2 inches. Gallberry becomes somewhat open with age and often loses its small lower branches.
Plants have berry-like, white drupes that occur from September to May of the following year. These 6- to 8-foot-tall plants are especially valuable to birds for their persistent fruits and branch structures. The flowers of Ilex glabra appear in May, and the staminate and pistillate flowers occur on separate plants. The female flowers are solitary. This cultivar has a tight canopy when it is young but opens up more typical of the species as it grows older. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Ilex glabra
prefers a full sun to partial shade location in the landscape and moist, acid soils; high pH soils should be avoided. Older plants may be renewed by heavy pruning. Gallberry is excellent when used in mass plantings and as naturalizing material. It has been utilized as a hedge, foundation plant and accent plant. It makes a poor hedge because it thins toward the bottom, but plants withstand renewal pruning if they get too leggy. Plants can be found in nature growing at the edge of swamps. Plants serve as hosts for butterfly larvae.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.