Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Deciduous Tree Of The Day


Acer saccharum 'Green Mountain®'
Sugar Maple, Hard Maple, Rock Maple

Type Tree, woody plant
Hardy range 3B to 8A
Height 50' to 65' / 15.20m to 19.80m
Spread 35' to 50' / 10.60m to 15.20m
Growth rate Average
Form Oval and rounded
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Green
Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange, red and yellow

This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Growing in full sun or shade, Sugar Maple will tolerate a wide variety of soil types (except compacted soil) but is not salt-tolerant. Established trees look better when given some irrigation during dry weather, particularly in the south. In the south, many leaves remain in the central portion of the canopy for much of the winter, giving the tree a somewhat unkempt appearance.

Sugar Maples are not recommended for the Dallas area, in many cases due to alkaline soils causing chlorosis. Sensitivity to compaction, heat, drought and road salt limit usage of Sugar Maple for urban street plantings, but it is still recommended for parks and other areas away from roads where soil is loose and well-drained. This cultivar performs better than others on dry sites.

Acer nigrum, a similar species, is more tolerant of heat and drought. Like other maples, leaves scorch in dry summers. `Green Mountain' has dark green foliage in summer and resists leaf scorch. Trees are considered fairly good compartmentalizers of decay.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Hibiscus syriacus 'Blue Bird'
Rose of Sharon, Althaea, Shrub Althea
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 5B to 9A
Height 10' to 12' / 3.00m to 3.60m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Slow
Form Upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue
Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are very showy.
EnvironmentThis plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.

Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color GreenFall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Easily grown shrubs usually planted in the perennial garden because of the abundance of colorful flowers. Too much or too little water or over fertilization will cause buds to drop from this plant. This plant is capable of self-sowing to the point of being a nuisance if the soil beneath is good. Pollen can cause slight to mild allergy symptoms.
Plants often have poor root systems which cause the plant to fall over as it grows taller. This often originates in the nursery when plants are held in containers too long. This can be avoided by choosing plants that are small for their container and slicing any roots that circle the outside of the container. Some growers also use alternate container designs specially designed to reduce the amount of circling roots.
Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Rosa x 'Double Delight'
Rose

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 3B to 10B
Height 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Spread 18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Pink and salmon
Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

EnvironmentThis plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture NotesRose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely. Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.
The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5 this is ideal.
A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun, morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease. Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.

Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Perennial Of The Day

Hemerocallis x 'Black Eyed Stella'
Daylily

Type Perennial
Hardy range 3A to 10A
Height 14" to 20" / 35cm to 50cm
Spread 20" to 24" / 50cm to 60cm
Growth rate Average
Form Irregular or sprawling and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

EnvironmentThis plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture NotesHemerocallis hybrids come in a wide range of colors, flowering times and sizes, and some even come with a fragrance. For the most part, daylilies are long-lived, hardy perennials that are tolerant of the sun. However, some species will show sun scald and prefer partial sun. Daylilies are adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions, and most bloom from late June until the first frost (depending on the cultivar). These plants attract both butterflies and hummingbirds and, usually, are both heat and drought resistant. Hemerocallis are extremely tough plants that spread rapidly in most conditions, thereby choking out weeds without becoming invasive themselves. The best time to plant daylilies is early spring. Although the individual blooms are short-lived, the number of blooms you get from an average flower stalk continues on for weeks.

Daylilies adapt to almost any location that provides at least six hours of sunlight, but it's best to plant them in a prepared, raised bed of soil that is high in organic matter. For clay soil, coarse sand and organic matter should be mixed in. When planted, the crown should be even with the soil line. The growth rate of daylilies can be increased via generous irrigation practices. At the end of the flowering season, remove the spent flower stalks only so that the remaining dying foliage will protect the center of the plant through the colder winter months. Also, division of the plant every two or three years will increase stem strength and flower size.

'Black Eyed Stella' is an All American Daylily Selection. A heavy rebloomer, its ruffled flowers are golden yellow with a dark red eye.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Syringa x prestoniae 'Minuet'
Lilac


Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 3B to 7B
Height 8' to 12' / 2.40m to 3.60m
Spread 8' to 12' / 2.40m to 3.60m
Growth rate Fast
Form Rounded and vase shaped
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Purple
Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

EnvironmentThis plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture NotesLilac is a common flowering shrub that grows best in a sunny location. The plant will grow in shade but flowering is poor and powdery mildew is likely to be severe. The growth rate is rapid and the plant produces many suckers. Pollen bothers certain people.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.