Evergreen Annual Of The Day

Tropaeolum majus

Nasturtium, Indian Cress

Type Annual

Height 18" to 30" / 45cm to 75cm

Growth rate Fast

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Orange and yellow

Bloom Time Summer and Fall

The flowers are fragrant and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Habit of this plant can be either mounding or trailing. Nasturtium is easily grown, prefers full sun, tolerates poor soil and dry conditions. Propagate by seeds directly sown or by sowing under glass in early spring. Will bloom throughout summer in cooler areas only. The foliage stays fresh looking provided the plants receive some afternoon shade, and looks best when provided with occasional irrigation when the weather gets dry.

Nasturtium has several interesting benefits. Because it attracts aphids, it could prove beneficial in the garden, planted next to weaker plants, to protect them from these troublesome pests. It also has several culinary and purported medicinal uses. For example, fresh or dried Nasturtium leaves can be used as a peppery flavoring (although it's quite strong) in sandwiches and salads. Many believe this plant also helps prevent colds, relieves itching and soothes the scalp.


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Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Nerium oleander

Oleander, Rose Bay

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 9A to 11

Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Fast

Form Rounded and vase shaped

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Orange, pink, red, white and yellow

Bloom Time Year 'round

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Oleander tolerates poor soil and drought well and is often planted near the coast. It can even grow in slightly brackish water but needs all day full sun for best growth, form and flowering. Plants in containers tolerate moderately-high soil salt solutions up to about 6 mmhos/cm according to the saturated media extract method. However, the plant is poisonous.

There are probably more than 400 cultivars available at various places.
Tolerance to urban conditions makes it well suited for planting in highway medians where it can be planted and forgotten - probably best for this usage. It grows vigorously following wet weather, slowing down in drought, but always seems to look good even in very dry soil. Oleander is one of the easiest shrubs to care for, getting by with one or two fertilizations each year and only needing irrigation to become established in the eastern part of the US. Occasional irrigation in the western US helps plants pull through the hot, dry summer periods.

Sometimes suckers produced at the base of the plant will siphon off too much energy and flowering will be inhibited. These suckers should be pulled to remove them when they are young and succulent. Plants can be grown as shrubs, standards or trees, and flowers come in a variety of colors. Oleander caterpillars can be very troublesome. All parts of the plant are extremely poisonous if ingested. Prevent children from ingesting this plant.

Use as a street tree This plant can be grown as a multi-trunk tree for use in highway median strips and in landscapes, or can be used as a street tree where there is not a need for tall-vehicle clearance beneath the crown. The small stature and low, spreading, branching habit makes pruning for vehicular clearance difficult unless it is properly trained from an early age to develop one main trunk. The effort required initially to train this tree for street tree use, however, may be offset by its advantages.

Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Lantana camara

Yellow Sage, Lantana, Shrub Verbena

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 8B to 11

Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m

Spread 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m

Growth rate Fast

Form Irregular or sprawling and rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Orange, pink, red, salmon, white and yellow

Bloom Time Year 'round

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates drought and salt well.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage and fragrant foliage.

Culture Notes Surviving on poor soil and hot, dry, sunny locations, Lantana may produce fewer blooms if given too much water and fertilizer. Plants should be pruned in spring or late winter to remove dead wood. No other maintenance is required. Plants will grow back from the roots in the spring in USDA hardiness zone 8b and south. Plants do not die back in climates that stay above freezing temperatures. Plants attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

These plants have invaded citrus groves and other agricultural and roadside landscapes throughout Florida. All parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. There are more than 40 cultivars listed. They are distinct in their flower colors.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum syn. Viburnum tomentosum 'Newzam'

Doublefile Viburnum, Japanese Snowball Viburnum

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 8B

Height 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple and red

This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Newzam has a dwarf habit and grows well in sun to partial shade and any moist soil. The plant transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and grows to a mature height and spread of 2 to 3 feet in many landscapes. The white flowers occur in ball-shaped clusters produced in late spring. The plants even look great in summer after flowers drop due to the beautiful green leaves. Foliage takes on a dark maroon color in September and October.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Sorbus aucuparia 'Cardinal Royal'

European Mountain Ash

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 3B to 6A

Height 25' to 40' / 7.60m to 12.20m

Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Oval and upright or erect

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Red and yellow

This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes European Mountain-Ash is a pest sensitive tree in the eastern half of the U.S. Susceptibility to fire blight and borers makes it a questionable choice for large scale planting. However, it is quite suitable for a specimen planting where an accent is needed to attract attention to an area if the soil is loose, acid and well-drained. The tree is quite nice when it fruits. A number of cultivars have been developed with bright orange or red fruit. Fruits are messy when they drop on patios, driveways and sidewalks but are of little consequence in a lawn area. Branches have a tendency to form included bark in the crotches which makes them susceptible to splitting from the tree in a storm. Thinning, especially toward the ends of a branch, reduces the growth rate on the branch and this can help it develop a secure hold onto the tree.
The tree has no particular soil preference but is restricted to northern areas due to lack of heat tolerance. It is susceptible to several pests including fire blight and borers which can disfigure or kill the tree, and often do. Vertically-oriented branches and multiple trunks make this deciduous tree particularly attractive during the winter. But this same characteristic can also cause branches to break from the trunk due to poor connections with the trunk. Sorbus are much more at home in Europe and the pacific northwest where climates are moderate. In eastern US they grow best in the mountains. Trees resist breakage in ice storms compared to many of the more finely branches trees.
Maintain adequate mulch areaClear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.
Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.
In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

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