Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Thinking Landscape






Walkways in Design

By Steve Chepurny*

            Walkways and or pathways require careful consideration when contemplating an entrance approach or a simple means of egress to a point of interest or activity.  A path that is too long immediately will give the impression to your guests as overwhelming and uncomfortable.  We all appreciate curb appeal, and the entrance walk is the first approach or perhaps the exterior hallway to a property.  A comfortable walk that takes into account the average person’s stride and how steps are carefully integrated into the journey are critical components in a person’s perception of a home. Often steps are carelessly placed and blind spots exist, which creates an internal sense of discomfort.  Human nature wants to have a firm understanding of how to get from point “A” to point “B’ with a sense of ease, safety and most of all comfort. 
 
            Lighting is a critical component to make the journey safe and enjoyable.  It’s best to avoid hot spots in lighting unless safety is a critical concern.  An entrance lamppost with an address posted can create a sense of identity while providing a quaint feel to the property. When possible, integrate soft lighting from above, possibly mounted 25’ to 35’ high in a tree to create a soft moonlight feel with dappled shadows as soft accents.  If mature trees don’t exist, try mounting low profile lights in the soffit of the home, which can be directed to guide a person along the walk.  It’s important to have the light vary in intensity from very soft to brighter where needed at points of interest or change of grade.  Avoid the runway effect at all costs, however, which means far too much lighting. If energy efficiency is desired, try using an LED lighting system, which has a tremendous lamp life expectancy and very low energy consumption.  However, the initial cost can add 15 percent to 25 percent to the cost of project, but it’s less expensive in the long run. 

            Balance is key to deciding the width of a walk, and should take into consideration the house first, property size second and lastly the surrounding landscape. There is no right or wrong choice, but a feeling of comfort within the space is the desired goal. Typically, I recommended width of a walk should be no less than 48” for two people comfortably and should expand or vary in width at points of congregation, entrance ways, or points of interest.  A change in material selection at the entrance or point of interest is a great way to create some diversity in the walk and pattern.  I typically recommend the walk entrance be approximately 6’ to 8’ and gradually taper to a width of no less than 4’.   
           
           Drainage should also be a careful consideration in designing a walk.  If the walk collects or holds water after a rain, it’s been poorly designed.  Often flower beds line a walk with little consideration on how to move water off of the walk.  This problem can turn very quickly into a liability for the homeowner and landscape architect or designer if the water freezes and ices over in the winter.  Deicers can be used but often will quickly degrade a surface, including concrete, if used in excess.  Landscape and plantings can abut a path and add tremendous interest if sited appropriately to accommodate water runoff without impeding site lines. A surface with some texture will always perform better in both rain and snow than a product that’s smooth with little texture. 
           
           The choice of the material is yet another critical design factor in any walkway.  I typically like to have the walkway integrated with the architectural materials that are used on the home. If integration isn’t possible, a product that has a soft compliment as opposed to a glaring contrast will typically create a pleasant approach with a sense of visual pleasure to those strolling.  In choosing and selecting materials, favor local stone products such as bluestone or a classic brick. Natural materials are often timeless and the best choices. Some good examples: Clay brick is offered in a multitude of color ranges and styles so it adds a warm feel to any path; concrete pavers offer great selections in size, colors, and texture. Cost and budget always plays a critical component in selection.  A typical walk in concrete pavers can average about $15 per square foot to $16 under normal conditions. Clay products are typically in line with concrete products.  Natural stones may cost anywhere from $2 a square foot to $4 in addition to pavers. Having a budget upfront is key! You don’t want to waste time considering products that are just too expensive or high maintenance.  A knowledgeable landscape architect or designer will help you navigate through this maze.  By the same token, don’t settle for a product that won’t achieve all the above needs and possibly become a negative down the road. Wait, if need be, until your budget affords the proper designer, material and installation contractor.  

            Always consult a licensed professional to design and construct your walk.  It’s the first approach to your home and will add character and warmth for years to come.  A carefully blended walk with flowering shrubs, perennials, grasses and perhaps a small water feature will incorporate a harmonious path in your yard that will bring visitors to your door or patio with a big smile.

*Steve Chepurny, CLA, ASLA, is president of Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC in Southampton, N.J. For questions about walkways, contact Steve at Steve@beechwoodlandscape.com, www.beechwoodlandscape.com.

Thymus praecox 'Purple Beauty' Evergreen Perennial Of The Day

Thymus praecox 'Purple Beauty'
Type    Perennial 
Hardy range    5A to 7A
Height    2" to 3" / 5cm to 8cm
Spread    12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Prostrate and spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun 
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Purple
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer
The flowers are suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has fragrant foliage.
Culture Notes
This dense, mat-forming, aromatic plant is easy to grow and quite attractive when used in rock gardens, on terraces or between walking stones.  Honey bees love the nectar-rich flowers of Thymus.  Keep its mat-forming growth clipped to maintain compactness and vigor.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Dutch Crocus, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Crocus x hybridus
Dutch Crocus, Spring Crocus

Type Perennial
Hardy range 4A to 9A
Height 4" to 6" / 10cm to 15cm
Spread 4" to 6" / 10cm to 15cm
Growth rate Average
Form Upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue, orange, pink, purple, white and yellow
Bloom Time Spring and Winter

Environment This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes These plants are easy to grow, prefer a sunny protected area and will bloom through a lawn or mulch. The corm will be divisible a few seasons after planting.


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Thank You

Cotoneaster Congestus, Evergreen, Semi-Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Cotoneaster congestus syn. Cotoneaster glacialis
Cotoneaster

Type Shrub, groundcover, woody plant
Hardy range 6B to 9A
Height 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green

Culture Notes Makes a nice small 'meatball' for a residential landscape due to its small size. Can be clipped easily into a variety of shapes including balls, squares and other formal shapes. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.


Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Friday, January 7, 2011

Acer palmatum 'Sango Kaku', Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Acer palmatum 'Sango Kaku'
Japanese Maple

Type Tree, woody plant
Hardy range 6A to 8A
Height 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Slow
Form Upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Red
Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic (less than 6.8) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Copper, orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes This large shrub or small tree tends to leaf out early, so it may be injured by spring frosts. Protect them from drying winds and direct sun by providing exposure to partial or filtered shade and well-drained, acid soil with plenty of organic matter, particularly in the southern part of its range. Leaves often scorch in hot summer weather in USDA hardiness zones 7b and 8, unless they are in some shade or irrigated during dry weather. More direct sun can be tolerated in the northern part of the range.


Be sure drainage is maintained and never allow water to stand around the roots. Grows fine on clay soils as long as the ground is sloped so water does not accumulate in the soil. Responds well to several inches of mulch placed beneath the canopy. Stems and bark turn coral-red in winter.
Prune early in the life of the tree to develop several major branches well-spaced along a central trunk. This will improve the durability of the tree compared to trees with many upright and spreading branches originating from one point on the trunk.

Maintain adequate mulch area. Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You