Friday, May 20, 2011

False Dragonhead, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Physostegia virginiana 'Summer Snow'
    Obedient Plant,  False Dragonhead

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    3A to 8A
Height    20" to 30" / 50cm to 75cm
Spread    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Summer and Fall

The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Since this plant spreads quickly, it can become invasive, but it can be controlled.  Staking is usually required.  Propagate by dividing the clumps in the spring.  Variegated and white blooming forms are available.  'Summer Snow' is somewhat less invasive than the species.



Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Creeping St. Johnswort, Evergreen Groundcover Of The Day


Hypericum calycinum
    Creeping St. Johnswort

Type    Groundcover, woody plant 
Hardy range    5A to 10A
Height    8" to 12" / 20cm to 30cm
Spread    36" to 5' / 90cm to 1.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color    Yellow
Bloom Time    Summer

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This plant can be invasive and is used often as a ground cover. Prefers full sun, but it will grow in shade.  Stem cuttings can be taken in the summer.  Often the stems will root if they touch the ground.  The seed can be collected in the fall. Plants perform poorly in the southern US, admirably in the northwest. Spreads rapidly by stolons once established.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Fuchsia Blush of Dawn, Woody Plant Of The Day

Fuchsia x 'Blush of Dawn'
    Fuchsia,  Lady's Eardrops

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    9A to 11
Height    30" to 3' / 75cm to 1.00m
Spread    30" to 3' / 75cm to 1.00m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Irregular or sprawling
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
Plant forms vary greatly for fuschias from sprawling container plants to tree forms.  Fuchsias resent the cold as well as the extreme heat.  Grow in an area of good air circulation in the semi-shade.  Need a rich fertile soil.  Take stem cuttings in the early summer.  It is often recommended to add phosphate to the soil.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Flame of the Woods, Evergreen Plant Of The Day

Ixora coccinea
    Flame of the Woods,  Jungle Geranium

Type    Shrub, woody plant 
Hardy range    10A to 11
Height    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread    36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen
Bloom Color    Orange, pink, red, white and yellow
Bloom Time    Year 'round

The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
Culture Notes
Ixora thrives in full sun, in moist but well-drained acid or neutral soil, but can tolerate some shade.  Foliage turns yellow in alkaline soil such as next to sidewalks and foundations, where it is often planted.  A continued micronutrient fertility program is needed to maintain green leaf color in alkaline soil. Be sure fertilizer contains a significant amount of  manganese and iron, preferably in the chelated form. Recent work also shows that a combination of potassium and phosphorus deficiency causes a leaf spotting in sandy soils in Florida; this can be corrected by applications of both elements in controlled release fertilizer. Plants in flower attract hummingbirds. Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Friday, May 13, 2011

Rio Samba Rose, Deciduous Shrub Of The Day



Rosa x 'Rio Samba'
    Rose

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    3B to 10B
Height    36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Spread    18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Orange and pink
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Rose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely.  Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.

The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5 this is ideal.

A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun, morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease.  Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.

Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You