A New Burlington County 9-11 Memorial Designed & Constructed by Beechwood Landscape

Harlequin Butterflybush, Featured Plant of The Day

Buddleia davidii syn. Buddleja davidii 'Harlequin'

Butterflybush, Summer Lilac

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 5A to 10A
Height 4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m
Spread 4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m
Growth rate Fast
Form Rounded
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color Red
Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green, silvery and variegated
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
A dense canopy of foliage and a generous flower display combine to make Butterflybush a popular item in many southern landscapes. The plant is probably most popular because flowers attract many different butterflies and bees. It is one of the best plants for this purpose. Flower clusters range from 6-to 24-inches long. The olive-green, simple, hairy leaves have serrated margins and a lanceolate shape that flutter in the slightest breeze lending a fine texture to the landscape. These plants are considered to be fire resistant plants and also resist browsing by deer.
Plants become a tangled, woody mess after a couple of years and will need to be cut back every now and then. Buddleia is grown as a herbaceous perennial as far north as hardiness zone 5. Many last all year long in hardiness zones 9 through 11, but they respond well to yearly cutting to the ground to stimulate fresh growth.
They are deciduous in the north, semi-evergreen in the south and attract many types of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. They grow in partial shade but flower production is reduced. Alkaline soil appears to support adequate growth in many instances. Butterflybush performs nicely in a container provided it is placed in a full sun location. In a container, it can be trained into a multi-trunked shrub resembling a small tree, but requires daily irrigation to maintain flowering and a good appearance. Butterflybush acts like a perennial in the northern end of its hardiness range getting killed to the ground each winter.
Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Visions Chinese Astilbe, Featured Plant of The Day

Astilbe chinensis 'Visions'

Chinese Astilbe, Pumila Spirea

Type Perennial

Hardy range 4A to 9A

Height 12" to 14" / 30cm to 35cm

Spread 12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are fragrant, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green

This plant has attractive and fragrant foliage.

Culture Notes
Astilbes vary in size, bloom shape, bloom color, bloom time and leaf color. Although frequently categorized as a shade plant, they can grow in full sun in moderate climates, but require a rich, moist, acidic soil and some protection in the warmer climates. The flower heads last longer if they are planted to avoid the afternoon sun. Fluffy spikes of colorful, elegant and lacy foliage occur during June and July, for the most part. Astilbes are excellent when used in flower arrangements, either fresh or dried. 'Visions' is a dwarf Astilbe with raspberry-red blossoms. It makes an excellent ground cover and works very well in containers.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Fasan (Teller Red) Bigleaf Hydrangea, Featured Plant of The Day

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides 'Fasan(Teller Red)'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green and variegated
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Hydrangea makes a nice accent in a shrub border or growing out of a ground cover. Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 6 to 8 feet tall. Although it is best to add lots of organic matter to the bed before planting, I (Dr. Lyons)have had great success with planting in a fine sand soil without amendments. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically and minimize flowering. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Crown, Branch and Twig
This plant is symmetrical with a coarse texture and has a moderately dense crown.
This plant's bark is not showy.
Branches or twigs have a thick and fibrous surface.
This plant is often grown with multiple trunks.

Native Habitat
Species native to Japan.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Weigela florida 'Rumba', Featured Plant of The Day

Weigela florida 'Rumba' 

Old Fashioned Weigela,  Rose Weigela

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    3B to 8A
Height    30" to 36" / 75cm to 90cm
Spread    30" to 36" / 75cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Red and salmon
Bloom Time    Summer and Fall

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Weigela grows best in a sunny location and moist soil.  Shaded plants are straggly.  Weigela also dislikes crowding.  The growth rate is moderate and the shrub transplants well.  Some annual dieback and winter injury make annual pruning necessary.  Plants suffer in the deep south eastern part of the US. This is one of the Dance SeriesTM.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.