Bismarckia nobilis
Bismarck Palm
Type Tree, woody plant
Hardy range 10A to 11
Height 25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate Slow
Form palm and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Hardy range 10A to 11
Height 25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate Slow
Form palm and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring
Bloom Time Spring
Environment
This plant tolerates drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Blue
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Culture Notes
Bismarck Palm can grow in full sun or partial shade on any soil that is not continually wet. The palm has good drought and salt tolerance, and has now become popular due to its striking blue color. It cannot be transplanted until a trunk develops and is visible at the base of the plant. Container-grown Bismarck Palms can be planted any time of year. Most field nurseries routinely root prune this palm prior to digging to help it survive transplanting. Survival on Bismarck Palms not root pruned prior to transplanting can be poor. Pollen from male plants can cause significant allergy in certain people; female plant do not produce pollen.
Potassium deficiency is the most important problem on palms in south and central Florida, but this palm is usually seen without nutritional deficiency symptoms if provided with a moderate fertilization program. Potassium deficiency can develop on older leaves and shows up early as translucent yellow or orange or necrotic spotting. New foliage is usually not affected unless the deficiency is severe and has been present for some time. There may be necrotic areas along the sides of the leaflets, but usually not the tips. The frizzling that follows is more prominent toward the tips of the leaflets. As the deficiency progresses, younger leaves will become symptomatic. New foliage emerges chlorotic and the trunk begins to become thinner toward the top. Late symptoms can be confused with Mn deficiency.
Do not prune older symptomatic leaves from the palm as this will further the decline. Provide 2-4 pounds of sulfur coated potassium sulfate and 1-2 pounds of magnesium sulfate 4 times each year to treat and prevent this problem. Symptomatic foliage will not green up but new leaves will emerge green and normal. Fertilizers containing a ratio of 3N-1P-3K-1 provide a reliable maintenance program for most palms. In alkaline soils it is also a good idea to include manganese and iron at a ratio of about 0.5. Nitrogen should also be supplied in the slow release form. Spread fertilizer at least out to the edge of the canopy.
Transplanting palms
Any soil above the top-most root in the root ball should be removed before planting. Plant so the top of the root initiation zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball joins the trunk) is located just above the surface of the soil. If the palm is planted too deep, it may decline slowly or appear to die suddenly several months or years after planting. Soil amendments, including mycorrhizal-forming fungi and fertilizer, are not needed in backfill soil of newly planted palms in most situations. Regular watering in the months following planting is best for rapid establishment. Apply about 2 to 5 gallons per inch trunk diameter daily for several weeks when planting in summer. If you apply fertilizer at or soon after planting, apply a slow release product and place it no closer than about 12 inches from the trunk to prevent damaging the root initiation zone located at the base of the trunk. Leaves should be untied after setting the palm in the planting hole. Once new foliage appears, supporting stakes can be removed because roots are growing into the landscape soil.
Bismarck Palm can grow in full sun or partial shade on any soil that is not continually wet. The palm has good drought and salt tolerance, and has now become popular due to its striking blue color. It cannot be transplanted until a trunk develops and is visible at the base of the plant. Container-grown Bismarck Palms can be planted any time of year. Most field nurseries routinely root prune this palm prior to digging to help it survive transplanting. Survival on Bismarck Palms not root pruned prior to transplanting can be poor. Pollen from male plants can cause significant allergy in certain people; female plant do not produce pollen.
Potassium deficiency is the most important problem on palms in south and central Florida, but this palm is usually seen without nutritional deficiency symptoms if provided with a moderate fertilization program. Potassium deficiency can develop on older leaves and shows up early as translucent yellow or orange or necrotic spotting. New foliage is usually not affected unless the deficiency is severe and has been present for some time. There may be necrotic areas along the sides of the leaflets, but usually not the tips. The frizzling that follows is more prominent toward the tips of the leaflets. As the deficiency progresses, younger leaves will become symptomatic. New foliage emerges chlorotic and the trunk begins to become thinner toward the top. Late symptoms can be confused with Mn deficiency.
Do not prune older symptomatic leaves from the palm as this will further the decline. Provide 2-4 pounds of sulfur coated potassium sulfate and 1-2 pounds of magnesium sulfate 4 times each year to treat and prevent this problem. Symptomatic foliage will not green up but new leaves will emerge green and normal. Fertilizers containing a ratio of 3N-1P-3K-1 provide a reliable maintenance program for most palms. In alkaline soils it is also a good idea to include manganese and iron at a ratio of about 0.5. Nitrogen should also be supplied in the slow release form. Spread fertilizer at least out to the edge of the canopy.
Transplanting palms
Any soil above the top-most root in the root ball should be removed before planting. Plant so the top of the root initiation zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball joins the trunk) is located just above the surface of the soil. If the palm is planted too deep, it may decline slowly or appear to die suddenly several months or years after planting. Soil amendments, including mycorrhizal-forming fungi and fertilizer, are not needed in backfill soil of newly planted palms in most situations. Regular watering in the months following planting is best for rapid establishment. Apply about 2 to 5 gallons per inch trunk diameter daily for several weeks when planting in summer. If you apply fertilizer at or soon after planting, apply a slow release product and place it no closer than about 12 inches from the trunk to prevent damaging the root initiation zone located at the base of the trunk. Leaves should be untied after setting the palm in the planting hole. Once new foliage appears, supporting stakes can be removed because roots are growing into the landscape soil.
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