Friday, January 31, 2014

Sekkan Sugi Japanese Cedar Featured Plant of The Day


Cryptomeria japonica 'Sekkan Sugi' 
Japanese Cedar,  Sugi


Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    6A to 9A
Height    25' to 40' / 7.60m to 12.20m
Spread    12' to 18' / 3.60m to 5.40m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and pyramidal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

 Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

 Leaf Color    Green and yellow
Fall Color    Copper
This plant has attractive foliage.

 Culture Notes
This is one of the nicest cultivars with medium green foliage that appears to be disease resistant. Provide a well-drained acid soil and protection from winter winds in the north. Locate the tree so air circulation is good, particularly during summer to help prevent leaf blight. Best with afternoon shade in southern part of its range. Many cultivars are available varying in growth habit and ability to hold green foliage color in the winter. This one holds green color well. Little pruning is need to develop into the form shown in the photograph. There are so many cultivars one has to wonder why we need more.

Cryptomeria is tolerant of compacted soil and performs well in parking lots and other tough, urban sites with some irrigation in drought.  It makes a wonderful accent, screen, or border tree for larger properties.  It may grow too large for most residential landscapes.  They can be planted as street trees 10 feet back from the street in residential areas to provide an elegant flavor to the neighborhood.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Be sure to clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line (the edge of the branches), especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds.  This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size.  The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage.  It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.


Thursday, January 30, 2014

Testimonial



Subject: Patio

Hi:

Every new patio looks great the summer it’s installed.  The real test is how it looks the first winter and following summer.  Over the past few weeks we’ve seen snow, frigid cold and a decent amount of rain.  Several times we have looked into the backyard and said how beautiful the yard looks even in the dead of winter.  For us, that’s the real test of an outstanding design.


Well done guys, we’re still loving the work you did for us.  Even in the dead of winter.

Best,

Hugh

Ice Plant (Delosperma Cooperi) Featured Plant of The Day



Delosperma cooperi
    Ice Plant,  Trailing Ice Plant

Type    Annual, perennial, succulent
Height    2" to 4" / 5cm to 10cm
Spread    18" to 36" / 45cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Prostrate and spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Year 'round

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green and silvery
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Plants will flower nearly all year long.  Propagate by seeds or cuttings.  These plants will need mulch or some protection when the temperature nears 0 degrees.  D. cooperi blooms best during the hottest part of the year.  Contrary to most ice plants, D. cooperi can tolerate humidity. Spring cut dead foliage only, and allow plants to dry out between waterings.  The attractive, succulent foliage and pink, daisy-like blossoms of D. cooperi make an excellent look when used as a groundcover.


Tuesday, January 7, 2014

American Holly, Featured Plant of The Day



Ilex opaca
American Holly



Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    5B to 9A
Height    25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread    15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Pyramidal
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Green and white
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are fragrant.


Environment
This plant tolerates drought, occasional wetness and salt well.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society selected this plant as one of the Gold Medal Plants for 2001.  This award recognizes exceptional woody plants hardy from New York to Washington, D.C.   Growing well in full sun to partial shade, American Holly should be located on fertile, well-drained but moist, slightly acid soils below 6.5 pH.  Berry production is highest in full sun and only on female trees if pollinated by a male plant.  American Holly foliage thins during drought but insect and disease infestations are usually minimal. Foliage can burn in winter if exposed to direct wind. It tolerates salt air very well, growing along the secondary dunes in its natural habitat. Trees attract cedar waxwings, mockingbirds, robbins and many other birds.

Trees maintain a central leader and a conical shape even in the shade. The central leader form allows them to resist ice damage. Trees with double leaders will split in ice storms.  American holly resists deer browsing which can be a problem on other hollys such as Nellie R. Stevens.  Foliage can brown in strong winter winds.  This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.  Trees are tolerant of urban conditions and have performed well as street trees. Plants serve as hosts for butterfly larvae.

Plants in the wild tolerate wet soil but those planted in yards appear to be intolerant of poorly drained soil. I (Dr. Gilman) think that if you plant trees when they are young they will be more successful in wet soils than if you plant a tree with a 2 inch trunk diameter or larger.  Killing point for mature roots 9 degrees F.

This is the state tree of Delaware.

Wood is considered diffuse porous meaning that there is little difference in size of pores between spring and summer wood.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.



Monday, January 6, 2014

Deodar Cedar, Featured Plant of The Day



Cedrus deodara
Deodar Cedar

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    7A to 9A
Height    50' to 75' / 15.20m to 22.80m
Spread    25' to 35' / 7.60m to 10.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Pyramidal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

 
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.


Leaf Color    Green and silvery
Fall Color    No change in fall color


Culture Notes
Cedar transplants easily from a field nursery if root-pruned or from a container. They recover best when protected from strong winds. They tolerate high pH and clay soil by growing most of their roots in the top few inches of soil. Supply mulch out to the edge of the branches for best growth and to help the tree endure extended drought. Mature trees reportedly tolerate root pruning better than some other trees. Cold-damaged trees die back at the top.

Male cultivars such as 'Pendula' produced lots of allergenic pollen; females do not.

Chlorosis often develops on alkaline soil caused by the unavailability of manganese and/or iron. The tree can be seen throughout California, the Pacific Northwest and in the southeast US but appears happiest in the western US. It can be grown successfully in dry climates provided it receives occasional irrigation in the dry season. The best plants I (Dr. Gilman) have seen are growing in areas with plenty of open soil space for expansion. Plants in zone 9 in the eastern US often struggle.

The tree has been successfully used as a street or median planting with lower branches removed. It appears to tolerate compacted, poor soil but declines in areas where smog is a problem. Plant on 20-foot-centers to create a canopy of blue foliage over a narrow street or walkway. Provide plenty of soil space for root expansion to help keep the plant vigorous. Cedrus deodara is probably the best true cedar for the South. For street tree use, remove any branches or stems that grow in an upright fashion so they do not compete with the leader. Double leaders can split from the tree if they have included bark in the branch union. Those with wide angles of attachment and no included bark can be left to develop a wide, sweeping, low habit if there is sufficient room for this form such as in a large lawn or park.

Cedars are among those susceptible to summer branch drop according to surveys in California. Summer branch drop is a phenomena resulting in failure and breakage of large diameter branches typically on calm summer days.

Foliage summer nitrogen content on established trees in irrigated landscapes in California ranged from 1.0 - 1.4 percent.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Be sure to clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line (the edge of the branches), especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds.  This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size.  The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage.  It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.
This plant has attractive foliage.