Oregon Grape, Featured Plant of The Day

Mahonia aquifolium

Oregon Grape, Oregon Holly Grape, Oregon Holly

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 4B to 8B
Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m
Spread 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate Fast
Form Upright or erect
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and showy.


Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green

Fall Color No change in fall color


Culture Notes
With holly-like leaves, blue fruits, and striking yellow flowers, Oregon holly has much to offer in the landscape. Fruits are attractive and appear to be produced in more abundance in the western portion of the country (see fruit photograph from Oregon). Plants will grow in sun or shade but should be shaded in the winter to prevent the purplish leaves from browning. Transplanting is most successful with either potted or balled and burlapped plants. Oregon holly reaches 4 to 6 feet tall with an equal spread. Plants grow moderately fast, spreading by the suckering root system. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Cultivars include: `Compactum' - about 3 feet tall; `King's Ransom' - upright with bluish green leaves that turn bronze-red in winter, somewhat more tolerant of winter weather; `Mayan Strain' - dwarf with glossy leaves; `Repens' - can be used as a ground cover.


Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear what you have to say.

Japanese Andromeda, Featured Plant of The Day

Pieris japonica 'Valley Rose'

Japanese Pieris, Japanese Andromeda, Lily of the Valley Bush, Lily of the Valley Shrub

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 4B to 7A
Height 9' to 12' / 2.80m to 3.60m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Slow
Form Oval
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color Pink and white
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought. This plant will grow in dry soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Be sure to plant in a well-drained soil for root disease can infect plants in wet soil. Organic matter incorporated in the root zone can help plants look their best. Plants are best located in some shade for those in the sun are often infested with lace bugs. A vigilant spray program can allow plants to look good for a long time within its hardiness range. In order to preserve next years flower display, if you must prune, do it immediately after flowers fade. There are scores of cultivars selected for flowering time, color of flowers and foliage, size of plant, size of foliage, etc. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Alpine Totara, Featured Plant of The Day

 

Podocarpus nivalis

Alpine Totara

Type Shrub, groundcover, woody plant

Hardy range 7A to 11

Height 24" to 8' / 60cm to 2.40m

Spread 4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Prostrate, rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Yellow

Bloom Time Summer

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green

Culture Notes Provide full sun and good drainage for best growth.

Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Three Flowered Maple, Featured Plant of The Day

 

Acer triflorum

Three Flowered Maple

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 3B to 7B

Height 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Growth rate Slow

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Green and yellow

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Three-Flowered Maple was chosen as a 1996 Gold Medal Plant by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society for being a plant of exceptional merit, but underused in landscaping. The Three-Flowered Maple grows best in full sun or partial shade on well-drained soil. The tree has a shallow root system so it will not tolerate drought well unless mulched out to the canopy edge. It does not tolerate soil which remains wet for periods of time. Some leaves may have a few teeth, but margins are mostly entire. This is a common woodland tree in its native habitat and does well under the shade of other taller trees.

Maintain adequate mulch area. Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Tree establishment specifications. Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Freeman Maple, Featured Plant of The Day

Acer x freemanii 'Landsburg (Firedance®)'

Freeman Maple

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 4A to 8A

Height 50' to 60' / 15.20m to 18.20m

Spread 35' to 40' / 10.60m to 12.20m

Growth rate Fast

Form Oval

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes This is a natural cross between A. rubrum and A. saccharinum with fabulous fall color. Foliage is more like the A.saccharinum than the A.rubrum with deep lobes This cultivar has remarkable fall color. The red is hard to describe - be sure to look at the photographs! The Freeman maples possess the tough attributes of silver maple which makes it tolerant of urban landscapes. Trees compartmentalize decay well.
The wood is considered diffuse porous which means that there is little difference in size between the spring wood pores and the summer wood pores.

Maintain adequate mulch areaClear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Spring transplanting bestBalled-and-burlapped and bare root trees recover best when transplanted in late winter or early spring in the cooler portions of North America. This usually corresponds to the initiation of root growth.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You