Purple Trumpet Tree, Deciduous Tree, Woody Plant Of The Day

Tabebuia Impetiginosa     

Purple Trumpet Tree

Type    Tree, woody plant 

Hardy range    9B to 11 

Height    15' to 50' / 4.60m to 15.20m 

Spread    30' to 50' / 9.20m to 15.20m 

Growth rate    Slow 

Form    Rounded 

Exposure    Full sun 

Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Purple
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Purple Trumpet Tree is one of the most beautiful trees in flower in the world!  Its bright blooms fill the sky in spring with a gentile pink color for several weeks.  All foliage drops from the tree just before it flowers.  This is normal and is not a cause for concern.  Plants flowers and grow best in full sun.  Branches often form included bark in the crotches.  This can cause the branch to split from the trunk as it grows older.

Purple Trumpet Tree can be grown in full sun or partial shade on any reasonably fertile soil with moderate moisture.  Trees should be protected from frost.It is one of the most beautiful trees in flower which has a place in most landscapes. This tree appears to tolerate urban conditions well having survived in parking lot islands, buffer strips, and in other areas with limited soil space.  Trees are well suited for planting in parking lot islands and other small soil spaces. Once trees are established trees in Florida (50 - 65 inches of rainfall each year) they have grown fine without irrigation. Trees are considered fairly good compartmentalizers of decay.

Use as a street tree

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Thinking Landscape

Walkways in Design

By Steve Chepurny*

            Walkways and or pathways require careful consideration when contemplating an entrance approach or a simple means of egress to a point of interest or activity.  A path that is too long immediately will give the impression to your guests as overwhelming and uncomfortable.  We all appreciate curb appeal, and the entrance walk is the first approach or perhaps the exterior hallway to a property.  A comfortable walk that takes into account the average person’s stride and how steps are carefully integrated into the journey are critical components in a person’s perception of a home. Often steps are carelessly placed and blind spots exist, which creates an internal sense of discomfort.  Human nature wants to have a firm understanding of how to get from point “A” to point “B’ with a sense of ease, safety and most of all comfort. 

 

            Lighting is a critical component to make the journey safe and enjoyable.  It’s best to avoid hot spots in lighting unless safety is a critical concern.  An entrance lamppost with an address posted can create a sense of identity while providing a quaint feel to the property. When possible, integrate soft lighting from above, possibly mounted 25’ to 35’ high in a tree to create a soft moonlight feel with dappled shadows as soft accents.  If mature trees don’t exist, try mounting low profile lights in the soffit of the home, which can be directed to guide a person along the walk.  It’s important to have the light vary in intensity from very soft to brighter where needed at points of interest or change of grade.  Avoid the runway effect at all costs, however, which means far too much lighting. If energy efficiency is desired, try using an LED lighting system, which has a tremendous lamp life expectancy and very low energy consumption.  However, the initial cost can add 15 percent to 25 percent to the cost of project, but it’s less expensive in the long run. 

            Balance is key to deciding the width of a walk, and should take into consideration the house first, property size second and lastly the surrounding landscape. There is no right or wrong choice, but a feeling of comfort within the space is the desired goal. Typically, I recommended width of a walk should be no less than 48” for two people comfortably and should expand or vary in width at points of congregation, entrance ways, or points of interest.  A change in material selection at the entrance or point of interest is a great way to create some diversity in the walk and pattern.  I typically recommend the walk entrance be approximately 6’ to 8’ and gradually taper to a width of no less than 4’.   

           
           Drainage should also be a careful consideration in designing a walk.  If the walk collects or holds water after a rain, it’s been poorly designed.  Often flower beds line a walk with little consideration on how to move water off of the walk.  This problem can turn very quickly into a liability for the homeowner and landscape architect or designer if the water freezes and ices over in the winter.  Deicers can be used but often will quickly degrade a surface, including concrete, if used in excess.  Landscape and plantings can abut a path and add tremendous interest if sited appropriately to accommodate water runoff without impeding site lines. A surface with some texture will always perform better in both rain and snow than a product that’s smooth with little texture. 

           
           The choice of the material is yet another critical design factor in any walkway.  I typically like to have the walkway integrated with the architectural materials that are used on the home. If integration isn’t possible, a product that has a soft compliment as opposed to a glaring contrast will typically create a pleasant approach with a sense of visual pleasure to those strolling.  In choosing and selecting materials, favor local stone products such as bluestone or a classic brick. Natural materials are often timeless and the best choices. Some good examples: Clay brick is offered in a multitude of color ranges and styles so it adds a warm feel to any path; concrete pavers offer great selections in size, colors, and texture. Cost and budget always plays a critical component in selection.  A typical walk in concrete pavers can average about $15 per square foot to $16 under normal conditions. Clay products are typically in line with concrete products.  Natural stones may cost anywhere from $2 a square foot to $4 in addition to pavers. Having a budget upfront is key! You don’t want to waste time considering products that are just too expensive or high maintenance.  A knowledgeable landscape architect or designer will help you navigate through this maze.  By the same token, don’t settle for a product that won’t achieve all the above needs and possibly become a negative down the road. Wait, if need be, until your budget affords the proper designer, material and installation contractor.  

            Always consult a licensed professional to design and construct your walk.  It’s the first approach to your home and will add character and warmth for years to come.  A carefully blended walk with flowering shrubs, perennials, grasses and perhaps a small water feature will incorporate a harmonious path in your yard that will bring visitors to your door or patio with a big smile.

*Steve Chepurny, CLA, ASLA, is president of Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC in Southampton, N.J. For questions about walkways, contact Steve at Steve@beechwoodlandscape.com, www.beechwoodlandscape.com.

Thymus praecox 'Purple Beauty' Evergreen Perennial Of The Day

Thymus praecox 'Purple Beauty'

Type    Perennial 

Hardy range    5A to 7A

Height    2" to 3" / 5cm to 8cm

Spread    12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm

Growth rate    Average

Form    Prostrate and spreading or horizontal

Exposure    Full sun 

Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Purple
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer
The flowers are suitable for dried flowers.

Environment

This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

This plant has fragrant foliage.

Culture Notes
This dense, mat-forming, aromatic plant is easy to grow and quite attractive when used in rock gardens, on terraces or between walking stones.  Honey bees love the nectar-rich flowers of Thymus.  Keep its mat-forming growth clipped to maintain compactness and vigor.

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Dutch Crocus, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Crocus x hybridus

Dutch Crocus, Spring Crocus

Type Perennial

Hardy range 4A to 9A

Height 4" to 6" / 10cm to 15cm

Spread 4" to 6" / 10cm to 15cm

Growth rate Average

Form Upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue, orange, pink, purple, white and yellow

Bloom Time Spring and Winter

Environment This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes These plants are easy to grow, prefer a sunny protected area and will bloom through a lawn or mulch. The corm will be divisible a few seasons after planting.

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Cotoneaster Congestus, Evergreen, Semi-Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Cotoneaster congestus syn. Cotoneaster glacialis

Cotoneaster

Type Shrub, groundcover, woody plant

Hardy range 6B to 9A

Height 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green

Culture Notes Makes a nice small 'meatball' for a residential landscape due to its small size. Can be clipped easily into a variety of shapes including balls, squares and other formal shapes. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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