Friday, March 2, 2012
Japanese Snowball Viburnum, Deciduous Shrub, woody plant of The Day
Viburnum plicatum 'Sawtooth'
Doublefile Viburnum, Japanese Snowball Viburnum
Doublefile Viburnum, Japanese Snowball Viburnum
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 5B to 8B
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 5B to 8B
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.
Fall Color Purple and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.
Culture Notes
Japanese Snowball grows well in sun to partial shade and any moist soil. The plant transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and grows to a mature height and spread of 8 to 10 feet in many landscapes, but can get larger, especially in spread. The white flowers occur in ball-shaped clusters produced in late spring. Foliage takes on a dark maroon color in September and October.
This plant is sterile and produces no fruit. In contrast to the var. tomentosum, flowers hang from the branches in a more-or-less random fashion.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Japanese Snowball grows well in sun to partial shade and any moist soil. The plant transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and grows to a mature height and spread of 8 to 10 feet in many landscapes, but can get larger, especially in spread. The white flowers occur in ball-shaped clusters produced in late spring. Foliage takes on a dark maroon color in September and October.
This plant is sterile and produces no fruit. In contrast to the var. tomentosum, flowers hang from the branches in a more-or-less random fashion.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Japanese Euonymus, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day
Euonymus japonicus 'Silver King'Spindletree, Box-leaf Euonymus, Evergreen Euonymus, Japanese Euonymus, Spindle Tree
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 6B to 10A
Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m
Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Average
Form Oval, upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Evergreen and semi-evergreen
Environment
This plant tolerates salt well.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color Red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.
Culture Notes
Spindle Tree is a loose, spreading shrub that can grow to 4 to 6 feet in height. The most outstanding feature of this large shrub with variegated leaves is its red-orange fruit borne in the fall. The showy fruits are scarlet capsules that crack open in the fall to display their scarlet seeds, and a plant in heavy fruit is lovely. This plant has greenish-white, inconspicuous flowers that occur from May until June. Very susceptible to pests problems and often succumbs. Not suited for Florida. Pollen causes mild allergies.
The Spindle Tree is excellent for naturalizing and gives a stunning effect when massed or planted in a row. It can be used as a specimen or foundation plant (if it is regularly clipped) and creates a nice border or hedge.
Spindle Tree will tolerate different types of well-drained soils but does not tolerate drought well; water and mulch the ground beneath the canopy for best growth. It grows in sun or shade, putting on the best fall color in full sun. Some shade from the afternoon sun in the southern part of its range is beneficial. The plant will withstand heavy pruning and has been used as a hedge for many years. Spindle Tree transplants well when balled and burlapped or from containers. Plants in containers tolerate high soil salt solutions up to about 8 mmhos/cm according to the saturated media extract method.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Cape Jasmine, Evergreen Shrub, woody plant of The Day
Gardenia augusta syn. Gardenia grandiflora; Gardenia jasminoides
Cape Jasmine, Gardenia
Cape Jasmine, Gardenia
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 8A to 10A
Height 4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m
Spread 5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Hardy range 8A to 10A
Height 4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m
Spread 5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage
Culture Notes
This glossy, dark green, evergreen shrub is well-known for its profusion of waxy, extremely fragrant, pure white blossoms in late spring or early summer. The foliage also is extremely attractive at all times of the year. Working well as a specimen planting, Gardenia also can be used as a hedge or screen. It is best to prune only after flowering since pruning sooner removes flower buds.
Care should be taken in the placement of Gardenia in the landscape. Since its fragrance is overpowering for some people, it probably should not be placed below bedroom windows or other such prominent locations. Plant it near a deck, walk, or patio where the fragrance can be blown around and enjoyed throughout the whole garden or landscape. Plant on 3 to 5-foot centers to form a hedge or mass planting.
Although tolerant of a wide variety of soils, Gardenia performs best in rich, moisture-retentive, acid soils where it will receive some shade during the hottest times of the year. Plants in cool west coast climates can do well in full sun. Fewer flowers are produced if plants are kept in total shade. Gardenia needs yearly fertilization to keep the leaves dark green. An iron chelate fertilizer will help keep the foliage glossy green, especially in soil with a pH greater than 7. Otherwise, Gardenias are relatively easy to grow.
Occasionally, flower buds drop from the plant. This can be caused by dry soil, wet soil, insect infestation or root damage from digging, chemical contamination (including too much fertilizer) or soil nematode feeding.
There are many cultivars including `Fortuniana' is a double-flowered cultivar; `Mystery', one of the best-known cultivars, has 4 to 5-inch double white flowers; and `Radicans' is a dwarf, ground cover-type, growing 6 to 18 inches high and spreading 2 to 3 feet.
Plants can be propagated by cuttings but without nematode-resistant rootstock these will be susceptible to nematodes. It is best to purchase plants grafted to nematode resistant rootstock (G. thunbergia). Unfortunately these are only hardy in central and south Florida.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.
This glossy, dark green, evergreen shrub is well-known for its profusion of waxy, extremely fragrant, pure white blossoms in late spring or early summer. The foliage also is extremely attractive at all times of the year. Working well as a specimen planting, Gardenia also can be used as a hedge or screen. It is best to prune only after flowering since pruning sooner removes flower buds.
Care should be taken in the placement of Gardenia in the landscape. Since its fragrance is overpowering for some people, it probably should not be placed below bedroom windows or other such prominent locations. Plant it near a deck, walk, or patio where the fragrance can be blown around and enjoyed throughout the whole garden or landscape. Plant on 3 to 5-foot centers to form a hedge or mass planting.
Although tolerant of a wide variety of soils, Gardenia performs best in rich, moisture-retentive, acid soils where it will receive some shade during the hottest times of the year. Plants in cool west coast climates can do well in full sun. Fewer flowers are produced if plants are kept in total shade. Gardenia needs yearly fertilization to keep the leaves dark green. An iron chelate fertilizer will help keep the foliage glossy green, especially in soil with a pH greater than 7. Otherwise, Gardenias are relatively easy to grow.
Occasionally, flower buds drop from the plant. This can be caused by dry soil, wet soil, insect infestation or root damage from digging, chemical contamination (including too much fertilizer) or soil nematode feeding.
There are many cultivars including `Fortuniana' is a double-flowered cultivar; `Mystery', one of the best-known cultivars, has 4 to 5-inch double white flowers; and `Radicans' is a dwarf, ground cover-type, growing 6 to 18 inches high and spreading 2 to 3 feet.
Plants can be propagated by cuttings but without nematode-resistant rootstock these will be susceptible to nematodes. It is best to purchase plants grafted to nematode resistant rootstock (G. thunbergia). Unfortunately these are only hardy in central and south Florida.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.
Crimson Bottlebrush, Evergreen Shrub, woody plant of The Day
Callistemon citrinus 'Perth Pink'
Lemon Bottlebrush, Crimson Bottlebrush, Red Bottlebrush
Lemon Bottlebrush, Crimson Bottlebrush, Red Bottlebrush
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 9A to 11
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color Red
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
Fall Color No change in fall color
Culture Notes
A good choice for a spot offering full sun, it will adapt to a variety of soils. Very drought-tolerant once established, Bottlebrush tolerates any soil except very poor, alkaline, or poorly-drained. Fertilize regularly to maintain good flower color and dark green foliage. Suckers from the trunk need to be removed periodically to maintain tree form. Offered as a shrub, Bottlebrush can be trained as a tree to 15 feet or espaliered as a quick wall cover. It makes a nice screen or tall unclipped hedge. Pruning to develop several trunks and removing some lower branches can create a fine small specimen tree. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reaction but pollen does not travel far from the plant.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.
A good choice for a spot offering full sun, it will adapt to a variety of soils. Very drought-tolerant once established, Bottlebrush tolerates any soil except very poor, alkaline, or poorly-drained. Fertilize regularly to maintain good flower color and dark green foliage. Suckers from the trunk need to be removed periodically to maintain tree form. Offered as a shrub, Bottlebrush can be trained as a tree to 15 feet or espaliered as a quick wall cover. It makes a nice screen or tall unclipped hedge. Pruning to develop several trunks and removing some lower branches can create a fine small specimen tree. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reaction but pollen does not travel far from the plant.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.
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