Featured Plant of The Day: 'Vulcan's Flame' Catawba Rhododendron

 Rhododendron catawbiense 'Vulcan's Flame'
    Catawba Rhododendron

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    5A to 7B
Height    6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Spread    6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is an acidic (less than 6.8) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

 Landscape Uses
-    Woodland garden
-    Border
-    Foundation planting
-    Massing
-    Specimen

Attributes and Features
-    Attracts birds
-    Attracts butterflies
-    Inconspicuous fruit

Culture Notes
Provide this plant with excellent drainage, organic soil and mulching. Do not cultivate around it, since it has surface roots and do not let the soil or mulch cover the stem. It is not salt tolerant nor drought tolerant and does not do well in sweeping winter winds. Rhododendron do well under the shade of canopy trees. This is certainly among the most vivid red selections.

Rhododendrons are ornamental, ericaceous, broad-leaved evergreens.  Azaleas belong to this genus, but many are not evergreen.  They grow best in shade or partial shade.  A south or southwest exposure increases the chance of winter injury to evergreen types when grown in northern climates.

Plant in an acid, moist, well-drained soil with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5.  Transplanting balled and burlapped or potted plants is most successful. Organic amendments in the backfill help establish plants from containers quickly by encouraging roots to grow out of the container and into backfill soil.  The shallow root systems are easily injured by deep cultivation but benefit from mulching.  Remove the old flower clusters as the flowers fade.

Plants fail to absorb iron and have yellow leaves with green veins if the soil is not sufficiently acid.  Finely ground sulphur can be added to the soil to increase acidity.  Have the soil tested before planting in order to determine the pH.  Apply a 2:1:1 N:P:K ratio fertilizer two or three times each year before and after bloom and perhaps again as plants enter dormancy - timing is not as critical as previously believed. Prevent winter burn in northern climates by avoiding exposed planting sites and by shading during winter.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Featured Plant of The Day: 'Conica' Spruce

Picea glauca var. albertiana 'Conica'

Spruce

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    2A to 6B
Height    8' to 12' / 2.40m to 3.60m
Spread    36" to 5' / 90cm to 1.60m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Pyramidal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Red and yellow
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Blue and green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Rock garden
-    Arbor
-    Specimen

Attributes and Features
-    Inconspicuous blooms
-    Persistent fruit
-    Inconspicuous fruit

Culture Notes
A dwarf conifer for residential and commercial landscapes. This plant can grow to more than 20 feet tall.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Featured Plant of The Day: Japanese Barberry

Berberis thunbergii 'Kobold'

Japanese Barberry

Type Shrub, groundcover, woody plant

Hardy range 4A to 7B

Height 12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm

Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Growth rate Slow

Form Prostrate and rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color Yellow

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Orange and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.



Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Rock garden
-    Border
-    Foundation planting
-    Massing
-    Groundcover
-    Erosion control



Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Persistent fruit
-    Fruit is edible by birds

Culture Notes Japanese Barberry is thorny, so it's useful for barrier plantings. The plant tolerates most light exposures and soils except poorly drained sites, but purple-leafed cultivars turn green in shade. This shrub grows slowly but transplants easily. It grows 3 to 6 feet tall and spreads 4 to 7 feet. Japanese Barberry can be sheared and used as a hedge plant.
The main ornamental features are persistent red fruits and fall color in shades of red, orange and yellow. Some plants fruit more heavily than others. The plant produces yellow flowers, but these are not highly ornamental. Small size and lack of abundant blooms and fruit sets this cultivar apart from most other Barberries. Plants form a neat mound without pruning. Plants are not unlike boxwood or Japanese Holly. New foliage is deep green becoming dark green at maturity. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Berberis thunbergii 'Bagatelle'

Japanese Barberry

Type Shrub, groundcover, woody plant

Hardy range 4A to 7B

Height 12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm

Spread 12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm

Growth rate Slow

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color Yellow

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Purple
Fall Color Orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.


Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Rock garden
-    Border
-    Foundation planting
-    Massing
-    Groundcover
-    Erosion control


Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Inconspicuous blooms
-    Persistent fruit
-    Attractive fruit
-    Fruit is edible by birds

Culture Notes Japanese Barberry is thorny, so it's useful for barrier plantings. The plant tolerates most light exposures and soils, but purple-leafed cultivars turn green in shade. This shrub grows slowly but transplants easily. Japanese Barberry can be sheared and used as a hedge plant.
The main ornamental features are persistent red fruits and fall color in shades of red, orange and yellow. This cultivar is a form of the variety atropurpurea and is more compact than many other cultivars. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

 

Berberis thunbergii 'Helmond Pillar'
    Japanese Barberry

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    4A to 7B
Height    24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Spread    12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Columnar
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Yellow
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Purple
Fall Color    Orange and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.

Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Rock garden
-    Border
-    Screen
-    Massing
-    Specimen

Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Inconspicuous blooms
-    Persistent fruit
-    Attractive fruit
-    Fruit is edible by birds

Culture Notes
Japanese Barberry is thorny, so it's useful for barrier plantings.  The plant tolerates most light exposures and soils, but purple-leafed cultivars turn green in shade.  This interesting shrub grows slowly but transplants easily.   Plants narrow toward the base. This is a cultivar of the variety atropurpurea and holds purple foliage well in the heat. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

FALL DISPLAY BY BEECHWOOD LANDSCAPE

Featured Plant of The Day: 'Yoshino' Japanese Cedar

Cryptomeria japonica 'Yoshino'
    Japanese Cedar,  Sugi

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    6A to 9A
Height    25' to 40' / 7.60m to 12.20m
Spread    12' to 18' / 3.60m to 5.40m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and pyramidal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color    Copper
This plant has attractive foliage.

Landscape Uses
-    Screen
-    Specimen

Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Inconspicuous blooms
-    Inconspicuous fruit

Culture Notes
This is one of the nicest cultivars with medium green foliage that appears to be disease resistant. Provide a well-drained acid soil and protection from winter winds in the north. Locate the tree so air circulation is good, particularly during summer to help prevent leaf blight. Best with afternoon shade in southern part of its range. Many cultivars are available varying in growth habit and ability to hold green foliage color in the winter. This one holds green color well. Little pruning is need to develop into the form shown in the photograph. There are so many cultivars one has to wonder why we need more. This one was developed to hold green foliage color well into the winter.

Cryptomeria is tolerant of compacted soil and performs well in parking lots and other tough, urban sites with some irrigation in drought.  It makes a wonderful accent, screen, or border tree for larger properties.  It may grow too large for most residential landscapes.  They can be planted as street trees 10 feet back from the street in residential areas to provide an elegant flavor to the neighborhood.

Maintain adequate mulch area
Be sure to clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line (the edge of the branches), especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds.  This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size.  The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage.  It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.