Rosa x 'Armada'
Rose
Rose
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 3B to 10B
Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 3B to 10B
Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color Pink
Bloom Time Summer
The flowers are fragrant, very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.
Bloom Time Summer
The flowers are fragrant, very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.
Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
Fall Color No change in fall color
Culture Notes
Rose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely. Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.
The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended, as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5, this is ideal.
A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun; morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease. Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.
Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.
This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Rose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely. Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.
The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended, as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5, this is ideal.
A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun; morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease. Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.
Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.
This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
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