White Trillium, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Trillium grandiflorum
    Large Flowered Trillium,  White Trillium,  Large Flower Wakerobin

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 9A
Height    12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm
Spread    14" to 18" / 35cm to 45cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Full shade to partial sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Pink and white
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Division can be done by lifting the plant during summer dormancy and dividing the rhizome.  Seeds can be allowed to drop and germinate, and the new seedling can be dug in the spring.  Flowers will fade to pink with age. Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Snow in Summer, Semi-evergreen Perennial Of The Day

Cerastium tomentosum syn. Cerastium bierbersteinii 'Yo Yo'

Taurus Cerastium, Mouse-Ear Chickweed, Silver Carpet, Snow in Summer

Type Perennial

Hardy range 3A to 7A

Height 3" to 6" / 8cm to 15cm

Spread 6" to 12" / 15cm to 30cm

Growth rate Fast

Form Spreading or horizontal

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

EnvironmentThis plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral soil.

Leaf Color Green and silvery

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Depending on the cultivars, this mat-forming plant can be invasive. Shear after the plant has bloomed to keep it neat and contained. Excellent as a ground cover, both for its white flowers and fuzzy-green/gray foliage. 'Yo Yo' is a compact plant with free flowering capabilities. It is well used as a spreading ground cover.
Well drained, infertile soil is preferable.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Ballade Hybrid Tulip, Deciduous Annual, perennial Of The Day

Tulipa x 'Ballade'
    Hybrid Tulip

Type    Annual, perennial
Height    18" to 30" / 45cm to 75cm
Spread    6" to 10" / 15cm to 25cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
Most of the hybrids bloom for a few seasons and then need to be divided or removed.  Tulips should be planted in the fall in soil that is fertile and well-drained.  Dead heading and feeding can promote longevity.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

American Plum, Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Prunus americana
    American Plum,  American Wild Plum

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    3B to 8A
Height    15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Spread    15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Orange and yellow

This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
American Plum grows 20 feet tall and wide forming a rounded mass of slender, thorny branches sprouting from a short trunk.  In spring, before the 1 to 2-inch-long leaves appear, American Plum is festooned with small, white, fragrant flowers which make the trees quite decorative in the presence of other trees which are often still dormant.  The 0.5-inch-diameter fruits which follow are red, ripening to yellow, and are extremely popular with wildlife and man.

A regular fertilization program with slow release nitrogen is recommended to keep plants vigorous. Too much nitrogen in the soluble form could stimulate sprouting. The plums are either eaten fresh or used to make a delicious jelly. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. Foliage from most members of this genus is considered poisonous when ingested. Cherries compartmentalize decay poorly meaning that decay can spread rapidly inside the tree following mechanical injury to the trunk or removing large branches.

Provide good drainage in an acidic soil for best growth. Crowns become one-sided unless they receive light from all around the plant, so locate in full sun. Select a different plant if soil is poorly drained, but otherwise cherry adapts to clay or loam. Roots should be kept moist and should not be subjected to prolonged drought.

Grown occasionally with a short, single leader and used as a patio or residential landscape tree, American Plum is usually seen with a multiple trunk planted as a specimen or in a median strip, or planted on 15 to 25-foot-centers along the entrance road to a commercial property.

A North American native tree, American Plum is very easily grown and has no special cultural requirements.  It tolerates drought, sandy or clayey soil but does poorly in alkaline pH.  These small trees grow quickly but have a relatively short life.  This should not stop you from planting the tree since it will serve the landscape well during its life.  It tends to sprout from the base of the trunk, forming multi-stemmed thickets.  This is the form most commonly seen in its native habitat on old fields and on other disturbed sites.  These may need to be removed regularly to help keep the plant looking neat.

This plant resists Japanese beetles due to a moderate amount of cyanide in foliage. The cyanide compound is referred to as prunasin.

Wood is considered semi-ring porous meaning that there is only a small  difference in size of pores between spring and summer wood.

Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line to reduce competition with turf and weeds.  This will allow roots to become established quickly and keep plants healthier. Train and prune the trunks and branches so they will not touch each other.  Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark, or those that are likely to develop it, as soon as possible. This reduces the likelihood of splitting from the tree later, when the tree has grown to become an important part of the landscape.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size.  The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of flowers.  It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located. Flowers develop from buds formed the previous year.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Lawson's Cypress, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Aurea-densa'

Lawson's Cypress, Oregon Cedar, Port Orford Cedar

Type Tree, shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 7B

Height 20' to 30' / 6.00m to 9.20m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Slow

Form Columnar and pyramidal

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Blue and red

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. 

The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Lawson's Cypress is best suited for large landscapes such as parks, golf courses, and large industrial or commercial landscapes. Species will soar to 150-200 feet tall in its native habitat but will never come close to this height in a planted landscape. The dense, symmetrical growth habit makes it ideally suited as a tall screen in a sunny spot protected from strong wind.
It has picky cultural requirements and should be grown in full sun in moist, well-drained soil in areas of moderate to high humidity, and preferably where the trees can be protected from winds. These sites may be hard to find in the East; but the trees grow nicely in the Pacific northwest. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reactions in certain people.
Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Day Of The Hydrangea

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides 'Laciniata'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m

Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue, pink and white

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Bigleaf Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Long popular as a florist's plant, Bigleaf Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 6 feet tall. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink in neutral.

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides 'Domotoi'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m

Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue and pink

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Bigleaf Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Cultivars are available in shades or pink, white and blue. Long popular as a florist's plant, Bigleaf Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 8 feet tall. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink in neutral. Pollen can cause slight allergy symptoms.
Colors indicated for blue cultivars are for acid soil conditions; they appear pink or lavender in neutral or alkaline soil.

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides 'Tokyo Delight'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m

Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White and yellow

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Bigleaf Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Cultivars are available in shades or pink, white and blue. Long popular as a florist's plant, Bigleaf Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 8 feet tall. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink in neutral.
Colors indicated for blue cultivars are for acid soil conditions; they appear pink or lavender in neutral or alkaline soil.

Hydrangea serrata syn. Hydrangea japonica; Hydrangea macrophylla ssp. serrata 'Preziosa'

Sawtooth Hydrangea, Hydrangea, Mountain Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 4' to 5' / 1.20m to 1.60m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Pink

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.


Environment This plant tolerates some drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green, purple and variegated
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Cultivars are available in shades or pink, white and blue. Long popular as a florist's plant, Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 8 feet tall. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink in neutral. Prune after flowering (if needed) because flower buds for next years display form soon after flowering in the current year.

Colors indicated for blue cultivars are for acid soil conditions; they appear pink or lavender in neutral or alkaline soil.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Pee Wee'

Panicle Hydrangea, Hybrid Hydrangea, PeeGee Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 3B to 8A

Height 6' to 15' / 1.80m to 4.60m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Average

Form Vase shaped

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.




Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

 Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Yellow
 

Culture Notes Panicle Hydrangea should be grown in full sun or partial shade on well-drained, moist, loamy soil. Plants flower best in sun. The upright, spreading branches often bend down with the weight of the blooms, and the brown, faded blooms should be removed in late September to keep the tree from looking unkempt. If unpruned some people object to the pinkish brown fruits and old flowers which hang on to the tree during the winter. Pruning also is suggested to keep the plant to a consistent, neat shape. Lower branches can be pruned to clean up the bottom of the plant and make it grow into a multi-stemmed tree. Flowers emerge white and turn pink.

This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides

'Generale Vicomtesse de Vibraye'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m

Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Blue, lavender and pink

Bloom Time Spring and Summer

 

The flowers are very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Bigleaf Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Cultivars are available in shades or pink, white and blue. Long popular as a florist's plant, Bigleaf Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 8 feet tall. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink in neutral. Pollen can cause slight allergy symptoms.

Hydrangea macrophylla syn. Hydrangea hortensis; Hydrangea opuloides 'Taube'

Bigleaf Hydrangea, Florist's Hydrangea

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 5B to 9A

Height 4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m

Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Lavender and purple
Bloom Time Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Since the deciduous Bigleaf Hydrangea blooms on large buds formed on previous season's growth, any pinching to create more branches should be done immediately after flowering. Cultivars are available in shades or pink, white and blue. Long popular as a florist's plant, Bigleaf Hydrangea performs well in moist, rich garden soil in partial sun to fairly deep shade, where it can grow 4 to 6 feet tall. Although it is best to add lots of organic matter to the bed before planting, I (Dr. Gilman) have had great success with planting in a fine sand soil without amendments. Be sure that tree roots are not competing with the roots, since this will slow growth dramatically and minimize flowering. Flowers are bluish in acid soil, pink closer to neutral. Late winter freezes can kill flower buds in zones 7 and 8.

Colors indicated for blue cultivars are plants grown in acid soil conditions; they appear pink or lavender in neutral or alkaline soil. The best plants I have seen were in cool moist regions of the world like England and the Pacific northwest. 'Endless Summer' is a new introduction by Bailey Nursery that looks as though it flowers repeatedly through the summer. Foliage is poisonous if ingested causing nausea and vomiting.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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