Oregon Holly Grape, Shrub / Woody Plant of The Day

 Mahonia aquifolium
    Oregon Grape,  Oregon Holly Grape,  Oregon Holly

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    4B to 8B
Height    4' to 6' / 1.20m to 1.80m
Spread    36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Yellow
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
With holly-like leaves, blue fruits, and striking yellow flowers, Oregon holly has much to offer in the landscape. Fruits are attractive and appear to be produced in more abundance in the western portion of the country (see fruit photograph from Oregon). Plants will grow in sun or shade but should be shaded in the winter to prevent the purplish leaves from browning.  Transplanting is most successful with either potted or balled and burlapped plants.  Oregon holly reaches 4 to 6 feet tall with an equal spread.  Plants grow moderately fast, spreading by the suckering root system. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Cultivars include: `Compactum' - about 3 feet tall; `King's Ransom' - upright with bluish green leaves that turn bronze-red in winter, somewhat more tolerant of winter weather; `Mayan Strain' - dwarf with glossy leaves; `Repens' - can be used as a ground cover.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Common Boxwood, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Buxus sempervirens 'Vardar Valley'

American Boxwood, Common Boxwood

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 6A to 8A

Height 12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm

Spread 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Growth rate Slow

Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Green

Bloom Time Spring

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes Boxwood is a fine-textured plant familiar to most gardeners and non-gardeners alike. Eventually reaching 1- to 2-feet-tall (old specimens can be taller), Boxwood grows slowly into a billowing mound of soft foliage. Flowers are borne in the leaf axils and are bearly noticeable to the eye, but they have a distinctive aroma that irritates some people. Pollen causes significant allergy in certain people. Plants resist browsing by deer.

Boxwood makes a beautiful clipped hedge, lending a formal air to any landscape. It looks best when located along a foundation or as a border along a walk or path. Plant it far enough away from the walk unless you plan on regular clipping to keep the walk clear. Locating it several feet away will keep the foliage away from the walk for several years. Its distinctive form and rich, dark color make it less appropriate for mass planting or for specimen planting. It can be clipped into and maintained in virtually any shape. Unpruned plants maintain a more-or-less globe shape.

Best growth is in well-drained soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.2. Lime the soil with dolomitic limestone to raise the pH if soil is too acidic. In colder climates, plant in an area protected from winter winds. Leaves on most boxwoods turn reddish brown in winter in full sun and if exposed to wind.

A partially shaded or sunny spot is best suited for Boxwood. It enjoys a clay loam or loamy soil with a reasonable amount or organic matter. Sandy soils are usually not suited for Boxwood unless irrigation can be provided, or plants are protected from all-day sun. Soil borne nematodes also enjoy boxwood roots in sandy soils.. This cultivar is is one of the hardiest low growing boxwoods for the northern areas. It has a low, compact habit.

Planting and establishing shrubsThe most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment. 

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