Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Reflexed Dracaena, Evergreen Tree Of The Day



Dracaena reflexa 'Song of India'     syn. Pleomele reflexa
    Reflexed Dracaena,  Pleomele


Type    Tree, shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    10B to 11
Height    5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Spread    6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Summer

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This irregularly-shaped, tall growing Dracaena nearly grows into a tree.  Specimens 15 to 20 feet tall are known to occur in protected landscapes and inside buildings.  Leaves are unmistakably darker green than most other plants.  They are arranged alternately around the thick stems.

Best growth is in partial sun outdoors or direct light indoors.  Drought tolerance is good, making it well suited for the non-irrigated landscape.  Keep the plant away from direct coastal exposure since it is sensitive to salt spray.  Reflexed Dracaena is not for every outdoor tropical landscape due to its unusual form.  It is most often used as an interiorscape plant in malls and homes.  Despite the irregular growth habit, it is probably best suited for the formal landscape.  The foliage of 'Song of India' has broad yellow margins.

Pollen is not considered a source of allergens. Dracaena plants have been used to demonstrate that plants can clean up indoor air pollutants such as formaldehyde, carbon monoxide and benzene.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Rose of Sharon, Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Hibiscus syriacus 'Freedom'
    Rose of Sharon,  Althaea,  Shrub Althea

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    5B to 9A
Height    10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Easily grown shrubs usually planted in the perennial garden because of the abundance of colorful flowers. Too much or too little water or over fertilization will cause buds to drop from this plant. This plant is capable of self-sowing to the point of being a nuisance if the soil beneath is good.

Plants often have poor root systems which cause the plant to fall over as it grows taller. This often originates in the nursery when plants are held in containers too long. This can be avoided by choosing plants that are small for their container and slicing any roots that circle the outside of the container. Some growers also use alternate container designs specially designed to reduce the amount of circling roots.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Bearberry Cotoneaster, semi-evergreen Groundcover Of The Day

Cotoneaster dammeri 'Mooncreeper'
    Bearberry Cotoneaster
Type    Groundcover, woody plant 
Hardy range    5B to 8B
Height    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Spread    36" to 5' / 90cm to 1.60m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Prostrate and spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Purple and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
Makes a fabulous ground cover quickly for stabilizing banks and creating a "floor" in a landscape. Like the "Blue Rug" of the cotoneaster world but may not hold up in the long run. It may lack vigor once established. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.



Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You