Camellia japonica 'Amity Wilson'
Japanese Camellia
Japanese Camellia
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 7A to 9A
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Slow
Form Oval
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Slow
Form Oval
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color Pink
Bloom Time Spring and Fall
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring and Fall
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic (less than 6.8) soil.
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic (less than 6.8) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Culture Notes
Camellia is the state flower of Alabama. It is natural for some flower buds to drop, and it should not cause too much concern, because Camellias set more buds than they can open. Sometimes bud drop can be caused by overwatering, but even more by underwatering, especially during summer, or by spells of very low humidity. Excess fertilizer can prolong the growth period and make the plant more susceptible to cold damage. However, best performance of plants occurs with regular applications up to four times per year. Soil with a pH less than 7.0 is best. Camellia pollen causes few if any allergy problems.
Maintain adequate mulch area
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Transplant in winter during full bloom when the other parts of the plant are dormant.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Camellia is the state flower of Alabama. It is natural for some flower buds to drop, and it should not cause too much concern, because Camellias set more buds than they can open. Sometimes bud drop can be caused by overwatering, but even more by underwatering, especially during summer, or by spells of very low humidity. Excess fertilizer can prolong the growth period and make the plant more susceptible to cold damage. However, best performance of plants occurs with regular applications up to four times per year. Soil with a pH less than 7.0 is best. Camellia pollen causes few if any allergy problems.
Maintain adequate mulch area
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Transplant in winter during full bloom when the other parts of the plant are dormant.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
