Lantana x 'Gold Mound'
Lantana
Lantana
Type Groundcover, woody plant
Hardy range 9A to 11
Height 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate Fast
Form Spreading or horizontal
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Hardy range 9A to 11
Height 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate Fast
Form Spreading or horizontal
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Time Year 'round
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Year 'round
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has fragrant foliage.
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has fragrant foliage.
Culture Notes
Surviving on poor soil and hot, dry, sunny locations, Lantana may produce fewer blooms if given too much water and fertilizer. Plants should be pruned in spring or late winter to remove dead wood. No other maintenance is required. Plants will grow back from the roots in the spring in USDA hardiness zone 8b and south. Plants grow all year long in climates that do not receive freezing temperatures.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Surviving on poor soil and hot, dry, sunny locations, Lantana may produce fewer blooms if given too much water and fertilizer. Plants should be pruned in spring or late winter to remove dead wood. No other maintenance is required. Plants will grow back from the roots in the spring in USDA hardiness zone 8b and south. Plants grow all year long in climates that do not receive freezing temperatures.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
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