Thursday, February 23, 2012

Cape Jasmine, Evergreen Shrub, woody plant of The Day



Gardenia augusta     syn. Gardenia grandiflora; Gardenia jasminoides
    Cape Jasmine,  Gardenia

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    8A to 10A
Height    4' to 8' / 1.20m to 2.40m
Spread    5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage

Culture Notes
This glossy, dark green, evergreen shrub is well-known for its profusion of waxy, extremely fragrant, pure white blossoms in late spring or early summer.  The foliage also is extremely attractive at all times of the year.  Working well as a specimen planting, Gardenia also can be used as a hedge or screen.  It is best to prune only after flowering since pruning sooner removes flower buds.

Care should be taken in the placement of Gardenia in the landscape.  Since its fragrance is overpowering for some people, it probably should not be placed below bedroom windows or other such prominent locations.  Plant it near a deck, walk, or patio where the fragrance can be blown around and enjoyed throughout the whole garden or landscape.  Plant on 3 to 5-foot centers to form a hedge or mass planting.

Although tolerant of a wide variety of soils, Gardenia performs best in rich, moisture-retentive, acid soils where it will receive some shade during the hottest times of the year. Plants in cool west coast climates can do well in full sun. Fewer flowers are produced if plants are kept in total shade.  Gardenia needs yearly fertilization to keep the leaves dark green.  An iron chelate fertilizer will help keep the foliage glossy green, especially in soil with a pH greater than 7.  Otherwise, Gardenias are relatively easy to grow.

Occasionally, flower buds drop from the plant.  This can be caused by dry soil, wet soil, insect infestation or root damage from digging, chemical contamination (including too much fertilizer) or soil nematode feeding.

There are many cultivars including `Fortuniana' is a double-flowered cultivar; `Mystery', one of the best-known cultivars, has 4 to 5-inch double white flowers; and `Radicans' is a dwarf, ground cover-type, growing 6 to 18 inches high and spreading 2 to 3 feet.

Plants can be propagated by cuttings but without nematode-resistant rootstock these will be susceptible to nematodes.  It is best to purchase plants grafted to nematode resistant rootstock (G. thunbergia).  Unfortunately these are only hardy in central and south Florida.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


  Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Crimson Bottlebrush, Evergreen Shrub, woody plant of The Day

Callistemon citrinus 'Perth Pink'
    Lemon Bottlebrush,  Crimson Bottlebrush,  Red Bottlebrush

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    9A to 11
Height    10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread    10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
A good choice for a spot offering full sun, it will adapt to a variety of soils.  Very drought-tolerant once established, Bottlebrush tolerates any soil except very poor, alkaline, or poorly-drained.  Fertilize regularly to maintain good flower color and dark green foliage.  Suckers from the trunk need to be removed periodically to maintain tree form.  Offered as a shrub, Bottlebrush can be trained as a tree to 15 feet or espaliered as a quick wall cover.  It makes a nice screen or tall unclipped hedge.  Pruning to develop several trunks and removing some lower branches can create a fine small specimen tree. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reaction but pollen does not travel far from the plant.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.


   Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.