Forsythia x intermedia 'Spring Glory'
Forsythia, Border Forsythia, Golden Bell
Forsythia, Border Forsythia, Golden Bell
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 5A to 8A
Height 5' to 7' / 1.60m to 2.20m
Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Growth rate Fast
Form Vase shaped and weeping
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 5A to 8A
Height 5' to 7' / 1.60m to 2.20m
Spread 6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Growth rate Fast
Form Vase shaped and weeping
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple
This plant has attractive fall colors.
Fall Color Purple
This plant has attractive fall colors.
Culture Notes
Forsythia is one of the most common spring flowering shrubs, with its yellow flowers occurring before the leaves appear. Plant in a sunny growing area with a well-drained soil. This rapid grower transplants well and is 5 to 7 feet tall and spreads 6 to 8 feet. Thin occasionally by cutting off old wood at ground level. After a severe winter, only the protected lower branches have flowers. Forsythia tolerates city conditions but not crowding. This cultivar flowers well in the southern portion of its range. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. This cultivar has performed very well in North Carolina tests across the state.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Forsythia is one of the most common spring flowering shrubs, with its yellow flowers occurring before the leaves appear. Plant in a sunny growing area with a well-drained soil. This rapid grower transplants well and is 5 to 7 feet tall and spreads 6 to 8 feet. Thin occasionally by cutting off old wood at ground level. After a severe winter, only the protected lower branches have flowers. Forsythia tolerates city conditions but not crowding. This cultivar flowers well in the southern portion of its range. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. This cultivar has performed very well in North Carolina tests across the state.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
