Cottage Pink, Deciduous and evergreen Perennial Of The Day

Dianthus plumarius 'Ideal Violet'
    Cottage Pink

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 9A
Height    6" to 12" / 15cm to 30cm
Spread    12" to 18" / 30cm to 45cm
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous and evergreen

Bloom Color    Purple
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are fragrant and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Silvery
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
'Ideal Violet' was chosen by All-America Selection as a 1992 winner.  It was the first dianthus to receive this honored bedding plant award.  It has purplish-violet blossoms with a white eye.  In warmer climates, the mother plant will sometimes live through the winter.  Treated as an annual, this plant is often times confused for a perennial.  Division should be made from first year plants.  Seeds will differ from mother plant and can be collected after blooming in the summer.  Plants go well with: Myosotis, Asclepias, and Gaillardia sp.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Manchurian Cherry, Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Prunus maackii
    Manchurian Cherry,  Amur Choke Cherry

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    3A to 6B
Height    25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread    25' to 35' / 7.60m to 10.60m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Pyramidal and rounded
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
Amur Chokecherry is one of the most cold tolerant cherries available for planting in landscapes.  It is also one of the most striking with bark that shines like a new car.  Tolerance to alkaline soil and drought make it a great plant for regions from Oregon to the Dakotas clear across to New Jersey.  Amur Cherry is best in soils that drain well without standing water. Plants perform best on north facing slopes in the Rocky Mountain region. Most people choose to grow the tree with several trunks to show off the wonderful bark.  Try to space these trunks 6 inches apart along a short central trunk to develop a strong tree.

A regular fertilization program with slow release nitrogen is recommended to keep plants vigorous. Too much nitrogen in the soluble form could stimulate sprouting. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people. Foliage from most members of this genus is considered poisonous when ingested. Cherries compartmentalize decay poorly meaning that decay can spread rapidly inside the tree following mechanical injury to the trunk or removing large branches.

Amur Chokecherry should be grown in full sun on well-drained soil, and performs well only in the north.  The trees should be located where the roots can remain moist, but not wet.  Prune to open up the canopy to develop more of a tree-form, otherwise it looks like a large shrub. Locate the tree where its showy bark can be enjoyed.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line to reduce competition with turf and weeds.  This will allow roots to become established quickly and keep plants healthier. Train and prune the trunks and branches so they will not touch each other.  Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark, or those that are likely to develop it, as soon as possible. This reduces the likelihood of splitting from the tree later, when the tree has grown to become an important part of the landscape.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size.  The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of flowers.  It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located. Flowers develop from buds formed the previous year.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Spring transplanting best

Balled-and-burlapped and bare root trees recover best when transplanted in late winter or early spring in the cooler portions of North America.  This usually corresponds to the initiation of root

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Northern Catalpa, Deciduous Tree Of The Day

Catalpa speciosa
    Northern Catalpa,  Early Flowering Catalpa,  Hardy Catalpa,  Western Catalpa,  Indian Cigar,  Shawnee Wood

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    4B to 9A
Height    35' to 70' / 10.60m to 21.40m
Spread    35' to 45' / 10.60m to 13.80m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Oval
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Yellow

Culture Notes
Northern Catalpa tolerates a wide range of soils, including pH in the 7's, and is moderately drought-tolerant.  It is a tough tree suited for planting in large-scale landscapes.  Catalpa often escapes cultivation and invades surrounding woodlands. It is a tough plant that can grow about any place including sidewalk cutouts and could be used more. Catalpa speciosa  grows in a loose oval, 50 feet tall in most urban locations, but occasionally grows to 90 feet. Plants in containers tolerate moderate soil salt solutions up to about 4 mmhos/cm according to the saturated media extract method.

This coarse, large leafed tree spreads 45 feet and tolerates hot, dry weather, but leaves may scorch (especially cultivars with variegated foliage) and some drop from the tree in very dry summers. Expect one and two year old twigs on the ground after a summer thunderstorm or following windy weather. Fruit litter the ground in spring. The pretty flowers are produced a couple of weeks before C. bignonioides and they attract bees. One reference says pollen can cause significant allergies; another one says they do not cause allergies.

Wood was used for railroad ties and fence posts in times past.

Plants can be cut back to the ground each year to act like a perennial. The vigorous growth produces large leaves and a rich tropical effect in the shrub border.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs.  Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Reflexed Dracaena, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

Dracaena reflexa 'Song of India'     syn. Pleomele reflexa
    Reflexed Dracaena,  Pleomele

Type    Tree, shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    10B to 11
Height    5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Spread    6' to 8' / 1.80m to 2.40m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Summer

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This irregularly-shaped, tall growing Dracaena nearly grows into a tree.  Specimens 15 to 20 feet tall are known to occur in protected landscapes and inside buildings.  Leaves are unmistakably darker green than most other plants.  They are arranged alternately around the thick stems.

Best growth is in partial sun outdoors or direct light indoors.  Drought tolerance is good, making it well suited for the non-irrigated landscape.  Keep the plant away from direct coastal exposure since it is sensitive to salt spray.  Reflexed Dracaena is not for every outdoor tropical landscape due to its unusual form.  It is most often used as an interiorscape plant in malls and homes.  Despite the irregular growth habit, it is probably best suited for the formal landscape.  The foliage of 'Song of India' has broad yellow margins.

Pollen is not considered a source of allergens. Dracaena plants have been used to demonstrate that plants can clean up indoor air pollutants such as formaldehyde, carbon monoxide and benzene.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Rose of Sharon, Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Hibiscus syriacus 'Freedom'
    Rose of Sharon,  Althaea,  Shrub Althea

Type    Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range    5B to 9A
Height    10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought, occasional wetness and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Easily grown shrubs usually planted in the perennial garden because of the abundance of colorful flowers. Too much or too little water or over fertilization will cause buds to drop from this plant. This plant is capable of self-sowing to the point of being a nuisance if the soil beneath is good.

Plants often have poor root systems which cause the plant to fall over as it grows taller. This often originates in the nursery when plants are held in containers too long. This can be avoided by choosing plants that are small for their container and slicing any roots that circle the outside of the container. Some growers also use alternate container designs specially designed to reduce the amount of circling roots.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Bearberry Cotoneaster, semi-evergreen Groundcover Of The Day

Cotoneaster dammeri 'Mooncreeper'
    Bearberry Cotoneaster

Type    Groundcover, woody plant 

Hardy range    5B to 8B

Height    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Spread    36" to 5' / 90cm to 1.60m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Prostrate and spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Purple and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
Makes a fabulous ground cover quickly for stabilizing banks and creating a "floor" in a landscape. Like the "Blue Rug" of the cotoneaster world but may not hold up in the long run. It may lack vigor once established. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

False Dragonhead, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Physostegia virginiana 'Summer Snow'
    Obedient Plant,  False Dragonhead

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    3A to 8A
Height    20" to 30" / 50cm to 75cm
Spread    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Summer and Fall

The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Since this plant spreads quickly, it can become invasive, but it can be controlled.  Staking is usually required.  Propagate by dividing the clumps in the spring.  Variegated and white blooming forms are available.  'Summer Snow' is somewhat less invasive than the species.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Creeping St. Johnswort, Evergreen Groundcover Of The Day

Hypericum calycinum
    Creeping St. Johnswort

Type    Groundcover, woody plant 

Hardy range    5A to 10A

Height    8" to 12" / 20cm to 30cm
Spread    36" to 5' / 90cm to 1.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color    Yellow
Bloom Time    Summer

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This plant can be invasive and is used often as a ground cover. Prefers full sun, but it will grow in shade.  Stem cuttings can be taken in the summer.  Often the stems will root if they touch the ground.  The seed can be collected in the fall. Plants perform poorly in the southern US, admirably in the northwest. Spreads rapidly by stolons once established.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Fuchsia Blush of Dawn, Woody Plant Of The Day

Fuchsia x 'Blush of Dawn'
    Fuchsia,  Lady's Eardrops

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    9A to 11
Height    30" to 3' / 75cm to 1.00m
Spread    30" to 3' / 75cm to 1.00m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Irregular or sprawling
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
Plant forms vary greatly for fuschias from sprawling container plants to tree forms.  Fuchsias resent the cold as well as the extreme heat.  Grow in an area of good air circulation in the semi-shade.  Need a rich fertile soil.  Take stem cuttings in the early summer.  It is often recommended to add phosphate to the soil.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Flame of the Woods, Evergreen Plant Of The Day

Ixora coccinea
    Flame of the Woods,  Jungle Geranium

Type    Shrub, woody plant 

Hardy range    10A to 11

Height    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread    36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate    Slow
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Orange, pink, red, white and yellow
Bloom Time    Year 'round

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Ixora thrives in full sun, in moist but well-drained acid or neutral soil, but can tolerate some shade.  Foliage turns yellow in alkaline soil such as next to sidewalks and foundations, where it is often planted.  A continued micronutrient fertility program is needed to maintain green leaf color in alkaline soil. Be sure fertilizer contains a significant amount of  manganese and iron, preferably in the chelated form. Recent work also shows that a combination of potassium and phosphorus deficiency causes a leaf spotting in sandy soils in Florida; this can be corrected by applications of both elements in controlled release fertilizer. Plants in flower attract hummingbirds. Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Rio Samba Rose, Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Rosa x 'Rio Samba'
    Rose

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    3B to 10B
Height    36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Spread    18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Orange and pink
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Rose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely.  Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.

The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5 this is ideal.

A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun, morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease.  Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.

Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Bronze Red Treasure Flower, Perennial Of The Day

Gazania rigens 'Bronze Red'    

syn. Gazania ringens; Gazania splendens
    Treasure Flower,  Gazania

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    9A to 10A
Height    10" to 16" / 25cm to 40cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
The flowers close at night and on cloudy days.  These plants are often grown as annuals in colder areas.  This plant will tolerate mild frost only.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Tiger Flower, Deciduous Perennial Of The Day

Tigridia pavonia
    Mexican Shellflower,  One Day Lily,  Shellflower,  Tiger Flower

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    8A to 11
Height    18" to 36" / 45cm to 90cm
Spread    4" to 8" / 10cm to 20cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This bulb can tolerate poor soil, but It likes well-drained, fertile soil. Plant bulbs in the late spring, lifting and dividing them before frosts occur.  Can be grown from seed in the warmer climates; if sown in the ground at springtime, they will bloom the next season.  Propagate by offsets as well.  Tiger flowers come in a wide range of colors, are rather large (anywhere from 3-6" in diameter), and are divided into six segments  The three larger, outer segments are usually a solid color, whereas the three smaller, inner segments are usually white with dark blotches.  Blossoms last for only a day, but continuous flowering lasts for several weeks.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Japanese Skimmia, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Skimmia japonica syn. Skimmia rogersii

Japanese Skimmia

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 6B to 7A
Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and vase shaped
Exposure Full shade to partial sun

Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time  Spring

Environment

This plant tolerates some drought. This plant will grow in dry soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

 
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Culture Notes Japanese skimmia is a small, broad-leaved evergreen shrub that grows 3 to 4 feet high. Skimmia is a wonderful addition to the shade or part-shade garden and mixes well with rhododendrons, azaleas and other shade-loving plants. Like the rhododendrons, Skimmia prefers a moist, loamy, acidic soil. Skimmia may tolerate limestone (alkaline) soils if they are moist. In March to April, skimmia produces small white flowers which are somewhat fragrant. Variety intermedia scarcely attains a height of 18 inches.
Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment. 

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Waterlily Ideas For Your Pond

 

 Nymphaea 'Rose Arey'
    Waterlily

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 11
Spread    4' to 5' / 1.20m to 1.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Nymphaea species and its cultivars are notably the most colorful and recognized surfacing aquatic plants.  Hardy waterlilies are able to adapt to a wide range of climates if, in colder regions, their roots are covered with soil or the water doesn't freeze their crowns.  In the fall, hardy waterlilies store food in their fleshy roots and enter dormancy.  In some parts of the United States, hardy waterlilies flourish year-round.  Waterlilies are deep-rooted and tend to inhibit some algae growth due to the shade created by their large leaves.  Requiring a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight (partial shade is sometimes tolerated) each day, hardy waterlilies flourish from May until the first frost.  The individual flowers of hardy waterlilies open during the morning hours and close in the later afternoon hours; these blooms can last up to five days.  Faithfully prune these plants, and cut back the frost-killed foliage.  Hardy waterlilies should be planted initially under 3 to 20 inches of water, depending on the size of the rhizome.  Once established, the plant should be lowered to twice the planting depth.  Removal of dead leaves and flowers will prevent sinking and rotting in the water.  Requires full sun for blooming.  All waterlilies should be planted in firm compost in still water.  Avoid organic materials; it will turn the water green.  It is important that this plant be in an adequate amount of water.

The green leaves of 'Rose Arey' are tinted red.  Its pointed petals with incurving sides are pink, and the stamens are gold.  Although slow to establish, this plant does come into bloom earlier in the season than others and emits a mild fragrance.  It is a small to medium-sized waterlily and needs anywhere between 8-20" of water depth to cover the lily crown.

 

 Nymphaea 'Virginalis'
    Waterlily

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 11
Spread    36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Nymphaea species and its cultivars are notably the most colorful and recognized surfacing aquatic plants.  Hardy waterlilies are able to adapt to a wide range of climates if, in colder regions, their roots are covered with soil or the water doesn't freeze their crowns.  In the fall, hardy waterlilies store food in their fleshy roots and enter dormancy.  In some parts of the United States, hardy waterlilies flourish year-round.  Waterlilies are deep-rooted and tend to inhibit some algae growth due to the shade created by their large leaves.  Requiring a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight (partial shade is sometimes tolerated) each day, hardy waterlilies flourish from May until the first frost.  The individual flowers of hardy waterlilies open during the morning hours and close in the later afternoon hours; these blooms can last up to five days.  Faithfully prune these plants, and cut back the frost-killed foliage.  Hardy waterlilies should be planted initially under 3 to 20 inches of water, depending on the size of the rhizome.  Once established, the plant should be lowered to twice the planting depth.  Removal of dead leaves and flowers will prevent sinking and rotting in the water.  Requires full sun for blooming.  All waterlilies should be planted in firm compost in still water.  Avoid organic materials; it will turn the water green.  It is important that this plant be in an adequate amount of water.

'Virginalis' is a dependable bloomer, being one of the first waterlilies to open up and one of the last to go dormant.  It does quite well in up to three feet of water.

 

Euryale ferox
    Prickly Waterlily,  Fox Nuts

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    8A to 11
Height    1" to 2" / 2cm to 5cm
Spread    12" to 4' / 30cm to 1.20m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Lavender, pink, purple and red
Bloom Time    Summer

Environment
This plant will grow in moist to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
This plant is not reliable in areas that have heavy frosts.  It has large, round, floating, spiny leaves.  E. ferox should only be planted in deep tropical pools, and its seeds and rhizomes are edible.

 

 Nymphaea 'Aquateius'
    Waterlily

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    6B to 10A
Spread    4' to 5' / 1.20m to 1.60m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous and evergreen

Bloom Color    Purple
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.

 Environment
This plant will grow in wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Nymphaea species and its cultivars are notably the most colorful and recognized surfacing aquatic plants.  Hardy waterlilies are able to adapt to a wide range of climates if, in colder regions, their roots are covered with soil or the water doesn't freeze their crowns.  In the fall, hardy waterlilies store food in their fleshy roots and enter dormancy.  In some parts of the United States, hardy waterlilies flourish year-round.  Waterlilies are deep-rooted and tend to inhibit some algae growth due to the shade created by their large leaves.  Requiring a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight (partial shade is sometimes tolerated) each day, hardy waterlilies flourish from May until the first frost.  The individual flowers of hardy waterlilies open during the morning hours and close in the later afternoon hours; these blooms can last up to five days.  Faithfully prune these plants, and cut back the frost-killed foliage.  Hardy waterlilies should be planted initially under 3 to 20 inches of water, depending on the size of the rhizome.  Once established, the plant should be lowered to twice the planting depth.  Removal of dead leaves and flowers will prevent sinking and rotting in the water.  Requires full sun for blooming.  All waterlilies should be planted in firm compost in still water.  Avoid organic materials; it will turn the water green.  It is important that this plant be in an adequate amount of water.

 

 Nymphaea 'Comanche'
    Waterlily

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    3A to 11
Height    1" to 4" / 2cm to 10cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full shade to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Orange and salmon
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are fragrant, very showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Nymphaea species and its cultivars are notably the most colorful and recognized surfacing aquatic plants.  Hardy waterlilies are able to adapt to a wide range of climates if, in colder regions, their roots are covered with soil or the water doesn't freeze their crowns.  In the fall, hardy waterlilies store food in their fleshy roots and enter dormancy.  In some parts of the United States, hardy waterlilies flourish year-round.  Waterlilies are deep-rooted and tend to inhibit some algae growth due to the shade created by their large leaves.  Requiring a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight (partial shade is sometimes tolerated) each day, hardy waterlilies flourish from May until the first frost.  The individual flowers of hardy waterlilies open during the morning hours and close in the later afternoon hours; these blooms can last up to five days.  Faithfully prune these plants, and cut back the frost-killed foliage.  Hardy waterlilies should be planted initially under 3 to 20 inches of water, depending on the size of the rhizome.  Once established, the plant should be lowered to twice the planting depth.  Removal of dead leaves and flowers will prevent sinking and rotting in the water.  Requires full sun for blooming.  All waterlilies should be planted in firm compost in still water.  Avoid organic materials; it will turn the water green.  It is important that this plant be in an adequate amount of water.

'Comanche' is probably one of the best "changeable" waterlilies.  Its blooms start out yellow, deepen to a pinkish-orange and, finally, turns a dark orange-bronze color.  Its lily pads start out purple and, with maturity, become green and speckled.  It tolerates partial sun and does best in a medium-sized pond.  It is a small to medium-sized waterlily and needs anywhere between 8-20" of water depth to cover the lily crown.  As a hardy waterlily, 'Comanche' does a fairly good job in resisting pests and diseases.  It is a prolific bloomer, has an extended bloom season and wonderful bloom colors.