Fragrant Viburnum, Deciduous Shrub of the Day

Viburnum carlesii 'Aurora'
    Koreanspice Viburnum,  Fragrant Viburnum

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    4B to 8A
Height    5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Spread    5' to 8' / 1.60m to 2.40m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are fragrant and showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Purple and red
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
Likes acid soil kept moist for best development.  Korean Spice Viburnum grows best in a sunny, open location with loose, well-drained soil.  Transplanting may be difficult and poor growth results from overcrowding or shading.  Korean Spice Viburnum has a moderate growth rate and is 4 to 8 feet tall and spreads 6 to 8 feet.  The fragrant, pink-tinged white flowers are produced in early spring and the fall color is reddish to wine red.  Fruits are produced but are usually eaten by the birds. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Rabbit Resistant Perennials

Rabbits are becoming more and more of a nuisance in landscape plantings. I am sorry to say there is no perfect list of plants that are rabbit resistant. Animals that are hungry will eat almost anything. Here are some things you can do to help keep bunnies and other small critters out of your landscape.

o Remove protective cover such as brush piles where rabbits hide and nest.

o Keep some open areas in the landscape. Smaller critters normally avoid areas of open space to steer clear of predators.

o Repellents don’t always work and what works in one yard may not work in another. Read the labels and make certain the product specifies rabbit. Rabbits don’t respond to odor repellents as deer do so most deer repellents won’t affect rabbits.

o Newly introduced plantings or recently moved perennials are more apt to be nibbled because of curiosity. So repellents can help to detour curiosity. Once the plants are more mature they are less likely to be eaten.

Please be patient and remember what is resilient in one yard may not be in another. Rabbits in one region will have different tastes than rabbits in another. There is no perfect list and we can not guarantee that rabbits will not eat the below listed perennials.

The list below was compiled from 3 different reputable lists of rabbit tolerant perennials. However ‘Beechwood Landscape Architecture and Construction’ is not responsible for any plants that may be eaten by rabbits.

Common Name

Alumroot or Coral Bells

Anemone

Astilbe

Aster

Bee balm

Bergenia Heartleaf

Blanket Flower

Bleeding Heart

Bugbane

Bugle Weed

Bugloss

Cat Mint

Columbine

Cornflower

Crocosmia

Daylilly

Dead Nettle

Foxglove

Geraniums or Cranes Bill

Goat’s Beard

Goldenrod

Hosta

Hyssop

Iris

Joe Pye Weed

Jupiter’s Beard

Knot weed or Fleece Flower

Lady’s Mantle

Lamb’s Ear

Lavender

Lilly of the Valley

Lenten Rose

Lung Wart

Lilyturf

Ornamental onions - Chives Yarrow

Penstemon

Peony

Creeping Phlox

Pincushion Flower

Evening Primrose

Red Hot Poker

Rodger’s Flower

Stone Crop

Spiderwort

Speedwell

Spurge

Sweet Woodruff

Yarrow

Blue Fescue Grass

Maiden Grass

Mondo Grass

Pampas Grass

Latin Name/Common Name

Achillea/Yarrow

Agastache/Hyssop

Ajuga/Bugle Weed

Alchemilla/Lady’s Mantle

Allium/Ornamental onions or Chives

Anemone/Windflower

Aquilegia/Columbine

Aruncas/Goat’s Beard

Aster/Aster

Astilbe/False Spirea

Bergenia/Heartleaf

Brunnera/Bugloss

Centaurea/Cornflower

Centranthus/Jupiter’s Beard

Cimicifuga/Snakeroot or Bugbane

Convallaria/ Lilly of the Valley

Corcosmia/Montbretia

Chrysanthemum/Mums

Dicentra/Bleeding Heart

Digitalis/Foxglove

Eupatorium/Joe Pye Weed

Euphorbia/Spurge

Gaillardia/Blanket Flower

Gallium/Sweet Woodruff

Geranium/Cranes Bill

Helleborus/Lenten Rose

Hemerocallis/Daylilly

Heuchera/Coral Bells

Hosta/Plantain Lily

Iris/Iris

Kniphofia/Red Hot Poker

Lamium/Dead Nettle

Lavandula/Lavender

Monarda/Bee balm

Nepeta/Cat Mint

Oenothera/Evening Primrose

Paeonia/Peony

Penstemon/Beard Tongue

Polygonum/Fleece Flower

Phlox/creeping Phlox

Pulmonaria/Lung Wart

Rodgersia/Rodger’s Flower

Scabiosa/Pincushion Flower

Sedum/Stone Crop

Solidago/Goldenrod

Stachys/Lamb’s Ear

Tradescantia/Spiderwort

Veronica/Speedwell

Cortaderia/Pampas Grass

Festuca/Blue Fescue Grass

Miscanthus/Maiden Grass

Ophiopogon/Mondo Grass

Sweetbay Magnolia, Evergreen Tree Of The Day

Magnolia virginiana

Laurel Magnolia, Swamp Magnolia, Sweetbay Magnolia

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 5A to 10A

Height 15' to 50' / 4.60m to 15.20m

Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Columnar and vase shaped

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence Evergreen and semi-evergreen

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Summer

Environment This plant tolerates some drought, flooding and a little salt. This plant will grow in dry to wet or submerged soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.


Culture Notes Sweetbay Magnolia roots easily from softwood cuttings, grows well near the coast, and is happiest in Southern climates in wet places similar to its native habitat. This plant can tolerate extended periods of flooding. It grows as a shrub in the northern part of its range. I (Dr. Gilman) can remember learning it in school as a tall shrub/small tree in the southern swamps of New Jersey. The plant reaches its true potential size in the southern portion of its range.
Despite it tolerance to wet soil, it grows well in non-irrigated landscapes, provided there is plenty of soil for root expansion and some shade. In the confined soil spaces typical of urban areas, irrigation is recommended. It has not been planted extensively in downtown urban areas, but its flood and moderate drought tolerance and narrow crown combine to make it a good candidate. Flowers provide a wonderful fragrance to any landscape. 'Havener' has larger flowers; the variety australis is evergreen.
Wood is considered diffuse porous, meaning that there is little difference in size of pores between spring and summer wood. Plants serve as hosts for palamedes swallowtail (Papilio palamedes), spicebush swallowtail (Papilio troilus), and tiger swallowtail (Papilio glaucus) butterfly larvae.


Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.


Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.
Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.
In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.


Spring transplanting best

Balled-and-burlapped and bare root trees recover best when transplanted in late winter or early spring in the cooler portions of North America. This usually corresponds to the initiation of root growth.

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Giant Purple Fountain Grass, Perennial Gras of The Day

Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum' syn. Pennisetum ruppelii

Fountain Grass, Giant Purple Fountain Grass

Type Perennial, grass
Hardy range 9A to 11
Height 36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread 36" to 6' / 90cm to 1.80m
Growth rate Fast
Form Rounded, upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color Purple

Bloom Time Summer and Fall
The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Pink
Fall Color Purple and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.


Culture Notes
Red Fountain Grass is an ornamental grass that is used in the landscape for its reddish foliage and showy flowers. The leaves of this 3- to 4-foot-tall plant are narrow, curving, linear blades with a beautiful red cast. The purple-pink or copper colored inflorescence of Red Fountain Grass sits atop a hollow, 3-foot-long, nodding flower stalk. The feathery inflorescence is 12 inches long and occurs from early summer to frost. The fruits of this grass are small seeds that volunteer to form small plantlets nearby; this plant is considered mildly invasive.
Red Fountain Grass has been considered a valuable accent or specimen plant used around a fountain for the cooling silhouette it presents. This plant is also lovely when planted in mass, and it makes a nice accent in a border. Flowers can be cut for fresh arrangements but fall apart as they dry making them unsuited for dry arrangements. However, it will reseed itself into surrounding landscapes. This could present a problem under certain circumstances.
Pennisetum setaceum `Rubrum' should be planted on a well-drained site that is exposed to full sun. Plants grow poorly in the partial shade unless the soil has been cleared of roots from surrounding trees and shrubs. This grass is grown as a perennial in most of Florida (zones 9 through 10) but is an annual in cooler climates. It may grow back from the roots in the spring in north Florida. It is moderately drought tolerant.
`Rubrum Dwarf' grows 2 1/2- to 3-feet-tall.
Division should be done by lifting and dividing the clump in the spring. Remove old foliage to rejuvenate the plant. Not hardy north of zone 9 but commonly grown there as an annual.
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Beechwood Landscape Creating Outdoor Spaces

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Old Fashioned Weigela, Deciduous Shrub Of The Day

Weigela florida 'Rumba'

Old Fashioned Weigela, Rose Weigela

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 3B to 8A

Height 30" to 36" / 75cm to 90cm

Spread 30" to 36" / 75cm to 90cm

Growth rate Slow

Form Rounded

Exposure Full sun

Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color Red and salmon
Bloom Time Summer and Fall

Environment This plant tolerates some drought. This plant will grow in dry soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green and purple
Fall Color No change in fall color
The flowers are very showy.


Culture Notes Weigela grows best in a sunny location and moist soil. Shaded plants are straggly. Weigela also dislikes crowding. The growth rate is moderate and the shrub transplants well. Some annual dieback and winter injury make annual pruning necessary. Plants suffer in the deep south eastern part of the US. This is one of the Dance SeriesTM.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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Small Globe Thistle, Perennial of The Day

Echinops ritro 'Taplow Blue'
    Small Globe Thistle

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 9A
Height    36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread    24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Irregular or sprawling
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Blue
Bloom Time    Summer and Fall

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral to alkaline (6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Silvery

Culture Notes
Root cuttings can be made in the spring.  Seeds can be collected late summer, but this plant notoriously self-sows and may take over gardens if the seed heads are not removed before ripe.  The heavy textured leaf has a creamy white underside.  The round steel blue flower contrasts well with other perennials,  such as Rudbeckia, Kniphofia, Echinacea, and Heliopsis sp.

Beechwood Landscapes Paver & Accented Driveways Of The Day

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Beechwood Landscape Indoor Outdoor Transition Of The Day

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Treasure Flower, Perennial of The Day

Gazania rigens 'Cream Beauty'     

syn. Gazania ringens; Gazania splendens
    Treasure Flower,  Gazania

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    9A to 10A
Height    10" to 16" / 25cm to 40cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring through Fall

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and silvery

Culture Notes
The flowers close at night and on cloudy days.  These plants are often grown as annuals in colder areas.  This plant will tolerate mild frost only.

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Thank You

China Aster, Annual of The Day

Callistephus chinensis 'Pompom'     

syn. Aster sinensis
    China Aster

Type    Annual
Height    18" to 36" / 45cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Full sun

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Summer and Fall

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
Once the flowers of the plant have been cut or have faded, it will not bloom again.  Start new plants at successive intervals to obtain longer bloom period.  Avoid planting in the same place in successive years to prevent diseases.