Lamb's Ears, Featured Evergreen Perennial of The Day

Stachys byzantina 'Big Ears'

Lamb's Ears,  Woundwort

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 8B
Height    6" to 18" / 15cm to 45cm
Spread    18" to 24" / 45cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Lavender
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are fragrant, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Silvery
This plant has attractive foliage and fragrant foliage.

Culture Notes
Stachys tends to rot in hot humid summers.  Cut back old foliage in the spring and divide plants every few years to control overcrowding. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Mountain Laurel, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Kalmia latifolia

Mountain Laurel, Calico Bush, Ivy
 'Bullseye'

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 4A to 8A
Height 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate Slow
Form Oval
Exposure Full shade to full sun
Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Purple and white
Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Mountain Laurel does best on moist, acid soils of moderate fertility and drainage and can tolerate sunny locations, if provided with sufficient moisture and not allowed to dry out. Plants in a sunny spot flower better. Mountain Laurel is not salt tolerant. Mountain Laurel is ideally suited to natural landscapes and other low-maintenance gardens where it can be allowed to grow to its natural form and size, with pruning only to remove spent flower heads and dead branches. Provide good drainage or plants die. Like many shrubs, amending the entire planting bed, not just the planting hole, with organic matter such as pine bark or peat improves root and shoot growth. Buds on this cultivar are deep purplish-blue and new growth is reddish.
All parts of the plant are poisonous causing watering of the eyes, nose and mouth followed by vomiting, abdominal pain, and low blood pressure. Plants perform poorly in zone 8B and south. Young plants in 3 gallon containers can be forced to produce flowers in spring with spray applications of certain growth regulators. In spring or early summer, all plant surfaces need to be covered with the spray in order to be effective. No shoot growth takes place in the growing season they are sprayed so perform any necessary pruning well before application.


Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Japanese Andromeda, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Pieris japonica 'Valley Rose'

Japanese Pieris, Japanese Andromeda, Lily of the Valley Bush, Lily of the Valley Shrub

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 4B to 7A

Height 9' to 12' / 2.80m to 3.60m

Spread 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m

Growth rate Slow

Form Oval

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Pink and white

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Be sure to plant in a well-drained soil for root disease can infect plants in wet soil. Organic matter incorporated in the root zone can help plants look their best. Plants are best located in some shade for those in the sun are often infested with lacebugs. A vigilant spray program can allow plants to look good for a long time within its hardiness range. In order to preserve next years flower display, if you must prune, do it immediately after flowers fade. There are scores of cultivars selected for flowering time, color of flowers and foliage, size of plant, size of foliage, etc. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction has won the Angie's List's Super Service Award

 

Beechwood Landscape Wins the 2012 Super Service Award!

Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC Earns Coveted Angie′s List Super Service Award Award reflects businesses′ consistently high level of customer service Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC has been awarded the prestigious 2012 Angie′s List Super Service Award, an honor bestowed annually on approximately 5 percent of all the businesses rated on the nation′s leading provider of consumer reviews on local service and health providers. "Only a fraction of the businesses rated on Angie′s List can claim the sterling service record of being a Super Service Award winner because we set a high bar," said Angie′s List Founder Angie Hicks. "The fact that Beechwood Landscape Architecture & Construction, LLC′′ can claim Super Service Award status speaks volumes about its dedication to consumers." Angie′s List Super Service Award winners have met strict eligibility requirements including earning a minimum number of reports, an exemplary rating from their clients and abiding by Angie′s List operational guidelines. Ratings are updated daily on Angie′s List, but members can find the 2012 Super Service Award logo next to business names in search results on AngiesList.com.

Current Super Service Awards

Year	Category	Status
2012	Landscaping	Accepted
2012	Landscaping	Accepted
2012	Masonry	Accepted
2012	Mulch & Topsoil	Accepted

Super Service Awards History

Year	Category	Status
2011	Landscaping	Accepted

Category	Recent Reviews	Recent Overall Grade	All Reviews	Awards
Drain Pipe Installation - Exterior	2	A	3
Driveways - Asphalt	1	A	2
Driveways - Concrete	1	A	1
Fountains	2	A	2
Landscaping	15	A	18
Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers	4	A	5
Lawn & Yard Work	2	A	2
Lawn Fertilization & Treatment	2	A	2
Lawn Irrigation	5	A	5
Lighting	1	A	1
Masonry	3	A	3
Mulch & Topsoil	5	A	6
Pool & Spa Service and Repair	0	N/A	0
Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures	1	A	1
Stone & Gravel	1	A	2
Tree Service	1	A	2

False Holly, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Goshiki'

syn. Osmanthus ilicifolius

False Holly, Olive Holly, hinese Holly, Holly Tea Olive, Holly Tea Olive

Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 7A to 9A
Height 6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Growth rate Slow
Form Rounded, upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence Evergreen
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Fall
The flowers are fragrant.

Environment

This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color
Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color
No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes

This large evergreen shrub or small tree is capable of reaching 15 to 20 feet in height and width but is most often seen at 10 to 12 feet high with an 8-foot-spread. Older plants grow as wide as tall and develop a vase shape with several main trunks typically originating close to the ground. The lustrous, dark-green leaves have paler undersides and are joined in the fall by a multitude of barely-noticeable, but extremely fragrant, white blossoms. They perfume a large area of the landscape.
With its upright oval to columnar growth habit in youth, Osmanthus is ideal for use as an unclipped hedge or trained as a small tree, and should be placed where its fragrance can be enjoyed. It is often planted as a hedge or foundation plant, and makes a very effect screen. Its spiny foliage makes it well-suited for planting as a barrier to help keep people from walking through an area. Since the flowers are not particularly showy, people will wonder where the delightful fragrance is coming from. This is a subtle plant which should be used more often in Southern landscapes.
Plants thin somewhat in full shade, but form a dense crown in a partially shaded location. Plants may suffer in full sun in the southern portion of its hardiness zone range. Planted on 4 to 6 foot centers, Osmanthus can form a wall of fragrance during the fall and should be planted more often. They will not grow as fast as Leyland Cypress, but think of this Osmanthus as a substitute for use in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Plants can be clipped to form a denser canopy, but flowers form on old growth and removing branches will reduce the flower display. With time, older plants can be trained into a small, multi-trunked tree. Osmanthus should be grown in sun or shade in well-drained soil. Plants are drought-tolerant once established. This is one of the most cold tolerant Osmanthus.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

Alaska Cedar, Evergreen Tree of The Day

Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula'

Alaska Cedar, Nootka Cypress, Yellow Cypress

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 4A to 8A

Height 25' to 40' / 7.60m to 12.20m

Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Pyramidal and weeping

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence  Evergreen

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.
Leaf Color Blue and green
Fall Color No change in fall color


Culture Notes It makes a striking specimen, with a distinct, graceful, weeping habit. It is often used near water or around a patio or as a lawn specimen. It reportedly does best with some shade from the afternoon sun, particularly in the southern part of its range. Trees in full sun look great in zone 5. Nootka False Cypress is native to coastal Alaska and Washington, performing best in areas with high humidity and moist soil conditions. Pollen can cause significant allergenic reactions in certain people.

Tree establishment specificationsChoose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time. All feedback is welcome and we’d love to receive all of your thoughts.

Thank You

Poinsettia, Christmas Flower, Shrub, Woody Plant of The Day

Euphorbia pulcherrima 'Winter Rose'
    Poinsettia,  Christmas Flower,  Christmas Star,  Mexican Flameleaf,  Lobster Plant,  Painted Leaf

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    9A to 10B
Height    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Spread    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Winter

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Unlike most Euphorbias, this plant is non-succulent and not considered poisonous.  Grow in a porous well-drained media.  Fertilize regularly during periods of active growth.  Cut back plant by 2/3 after flowering.  Water sparingly during winter months, periods of low light levels, or when leaf drop is noticed.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Nandina Domestica, Evergreen Shrub of The Day

Nandina domestica
    Heavenly Bamboo

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    6B to 9B
Height    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread    12" to 36" / 30cm to 90cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring

The flowers are showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
Fall Color    Red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes
With bamboo-like stalks and delicate, fern-like foliage, Nandina is much-prized for its oriental effect and distinctive appearance.  Adding to its appeal are large, erect panicles of creamy white flowers in spring followed by decorative bright red berries in fall and winter.  Berries are eaten by a variety of birds and this can spread the plant to neighbors yards.  Nandina spreads slowly by underground stems, providing attractive clumps for entryways, containers, or as specimen plantings in a ground cover.  They also add an accent to the front of a shrub border when planted in groups or clumps.  Plant on 2 to 3 foot centers for a mass planting, farther for a more open effect.

Nandina in partial shade will exhibit richer-colored red fall foliage than if planted in the sun.  Foliage diseases will be less in full sun.  Although tolerant of drought once established, rich soil and ample moisture will produce a lusher, better-looking plant.  Plants survive with neglect, although regular fertilization encourages growth and thicker plants.  Plants have been reported as invasive into selected natural areas in Florida and other southern states.

Nandina is a low maintenance shrub, requiring only one pruning each year to control plant height, if needed.  The tallest canes should be trimmed to the ground or to different heights in early spring to reduce the size.  This will provide for more foliage toward the ground and promote a denser plant.  Recent selections have produced several dwarf cultivars, and although most of these do not flower and fruit, they do produce vividly-colored fall foliage and can be used as a ground cover. Some are nicer than others.

Dwarf cultivars available include:  `Atropurpurea Nana' is a rather ugly, reddish plant; `Compacta', purplish winter color, 4 feet tall; `Firepower', red to maroon fall foliage, 2 feet tall, virus free which gives it superior foliage; `Gulfstream', reddish-bronze fall foliage, 4 feet tall, upright habit, suckers from the base; `Harbor Dwarf', bronze fall foliage, 1.5 to 2 feet tall; `Moonbay' and `Nana Purpurea', both are rounded and spread, and they have red fall foliage and are 1.5 to 2.5 feet tall; and `Woods Dwarf', red to maroon fall foliage, 1.5 feet tall.  The dwarf cultivar `Lowboy' flowers and produces red berries, reaches 3 feet in height, and has red fall foliage. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Leyland Cypress, Evergreen Tree, Woody Plant of The Day

X Cupressocyparis leylandii 'Haggerston Gray'
    Leyland Cypress

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    6A to 10A
Height    25' to 50' / 7.60m to 15.20m
Spread    15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Columnar, oval and pyramidal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Leyland Cypress grows in full sun on a wide range of soils, from acid to alkaline, but looks its best on moderately fertile soil with sufficient moisture.  It is surprisingly tolerant of severe pruning, recovering nicely from even severe topping (although this is not recommended), even when half the top is removed.  It grows well in clay soil and tolerates poor drainage for a short period of time.  It also is very tolerant of salt spray.  It is short lived in many landscapes due to a fungus disease.

Trees should be grown with one leader to prevent damage from snow and ice. Severe damage has occurred in trees grown with two or more leaders. Little pruning is required to form a well-structured tree since the trunk grows more-or-less straight and branches usually form wide angles with the trunk. Branches are typically small in diameter, helping them form a strong attachment to the tree, and formation of included bark appears less likely than on many other trees. Maintaining a single leader helps prevent splitting of the trunk in ice storms and other storms. Do this by removing or cutting back leaders than compete with the one you have chosen to become the main leader.

Tree establishment specifications

Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep.  In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface.  You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period.  Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.

Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment.  Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish.  Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.   Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees.  Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.

Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation.  For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting.  Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment.  Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established.  With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only.  In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball.  Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region.  In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil.  For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm.  Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring.  For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter.  During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter.  After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Chinese Fringe Bush, Evergreen Shrub Of The Day

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Burgundy'

Chinese Fringe Bush

Type Shrub, woody plant

Hardy range 7A to 10A

Height 12' to 20' / 3.60m to 6.00m

Spread 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m

Growth rate Average

Form Rounded

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Evergreen

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Spring

The flowers are fragrant and very showy.

Environment This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color Purple
Fall Color No change in fall color

Culture Notes Fringebush prefers an acid soil pH and a mostly sunny position in the landscape. Its small size makes it well suited for planting in back of a shrub border or for use as a small tree near the patio. Mass several together to make a dramatic statement and a nice, delicate flower show. It can be trained into a nice espalier. Plant may be listed as a cultivar of the variety rubrum.

Planting and establishing shrubs The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

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