Creeping Jacob's Ladder: Featured Plant of The Day

Polemonium reptans  syn. Polemonium humile
    Creeping Jacob's Ladder,  Creeping Polemonium,  Greek Valerian

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 7A
Height    8" to 10" / 20cm to 25cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Full shade to partial sun

Bloom Color    Blue
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

This plant has attractive foliage.

Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Woodland garden
-    Border
-    Groundcover

'Tonto' Crapemyrtle: Featured Plant of The Day

 Lagerstroemia x 'Tonto' 

Crapemyrtle

Type    Tree, shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    7A to 9A
Height    5' to 10' / 1.60m to 3.00m
Spread    8' to 12' / 2.40m to 3.60m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded and vase shaped
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are very showy.

 Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and a little salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    Orange, red and yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.

 Culture Notes
'Tonto' grows best in full sun with rich, moist soil but will tolerate less hospitable positions in the landscape just as well, once it becomes established. Foliage hangs on well in fall due to tolerance to leaf spot diseases. It grows well in limited soil spaces in urban areas such as along boulevards, in parking lots, and in small pavement cutouts if provided with some irrigation until well established.  They tolerate clay and alkaline soil well. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Many crapemyrtles are magnets for a host-specific aphid that only infests crapemyrtle, not other plants. The damage this causes is not lethal to crapemyrtle. Many beneficial insects which feed on pests that damage other landscape plants use this aphid for food. In this way, the crapemyrtle aphid serves as prey for beneficial insects. Therefore, planting crapemyrtle that attract aphids can enhance biological control of insect pests on other plants in the landscape.

Maintain adequate mulch area

Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other.  Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark.  This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape.  Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

 Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Border
-    Street tree
-    Pollarding
-    Standard
-    Massing
-    Specimen

 Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Persistent fruit
-    Attractive fruit

 This plant can be trained to a single trunk.

Fraser Photinia: Featured Plant of The Day

Photinia x fraseri
    Fraser Photinia,  Red Tip Photinia

Type    Tree, woody plant
Hardy range    7B to 9A
Height    15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Spread    10' to 20' / 3.00m to 6.00m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Oval and upright or erect
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are very showy.

Environment
This plant tolerates drought and salt well.
This plant will grow in very dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green and purple
Fall Color    No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.

Landscape Uses
-    Screen
-    Street tree
-    Standard
-    Specimen

Culture Notes
Fraser Photinia requires good drainage and a full sun location to look its best, though plants are tolerant of shade and grow well unless infected with leaf spot. However, plants in shaded landscapes often have severe leaf spot disease. Plants trained as hedges are more impacted by the disease because foliage is closer to the ground where spores overwinter; plants trained into small trees are less affected because foliage is higher off the ground.

Hedges are often seen without flowers because regular pruning removes flower buds. Plants left to grow taller or those only pruned immediately after flowering flower the best the following year. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Plants grow at a moderate rate and tolerate pruning very well, although the bottom of the plant often thins when clipped into a hedge. There are much better plants for hedges.  Plants are poorly suited for hedges because they grow too large; essentially you are attempting to make a small shrub out of the medium sized tree.

Micro-nutrient problems occur on alkaline soil, although plants continue to grow. Tolerates heat well and is suited for exposed sites like parking lots and median strips in highways.  It grows fine in the shade but leaf spot is sure to follow causing defoliation and disappointment (or jubilation depending upon your persuasion). Regular fertilization program helps foliage remain green. Chlorosis can occur on alkaline soil and in landscapes receiving little nitrogen and possibly potassium. Use Ternstroemia gymnanthera instead for a similar look and denser plant without the foliage disease problems of red tip.

 Use as a street tree

This plant can be grown as a multi-trunk tree for use in highway median strips and in landscapes, or can be used as a street tree where there is not a need for tall-vehicle clearance beneath the crown.  The small stature and low, spreading, branching habit makes pruning for vehicular clearance difficult unless it is properly trained from an early age to develop one main trunk. The effort required initially to train this tree for street tree use, however, may be offset by its advantages.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Butterflybush: Featured Plant of The Day

Buddleia davidii     syn. Buddleja davidii
    Butterflybush,  Summer Lilac

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    5A to 10A
Height    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Spread    6' to 10' / 1.80m to 3.00m
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Semi-evergreen

Bloom Color    Lavender, pink, purple, red, white and yellow
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Blue and green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Landscape Uses
-    Container plantings
-    Border
-    Standard
-    Massing
-    Specimen

Attributes and Features
-    Pest tolerant
-    Naturalizing
-    Attracts birds
-    Attracts butterflies
-    Inconspicuous fruit

Culture Notes
A dense canopy of foliage and a generous flower display combine to make Butterflybush a popular item in many southern landscapes. The plant is probably most popular because flowers attract many different butterflies and bees.  It is one of the best plants for this purpose. Flower clusters range from 6-to 24-inches long. Pollen causes some allergies in some people. The olive-green, simple, hairy leaves have serrated margins and a lanceolate shape that flutter in the slightest breeze lending a fine texture to the landscape. These plants are considered to be fire resistant plants and also resist browsing by deer.

Plants become a tangled, woody mess after a couple of years and will need to be cut back every now and then. Buddleia is grown as a herbaceous perennial as far north as hardiness zone 5.

They are deciduous in the north, semi-evergreen in the south and attract many types of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. They grow in partial shade but flower production is reduced.  Alkaline soil appears to support adequate growth in many instances.  Butterflybush performs nicely in a container provided it is placed in a full sun location. In a container, it can be trained into a multi-trunked shrub resembling a small tree, but requires daily irrigation to maintain flowering and a good appearance. Butterflybush acts like a perennial in the northern end of its hardiness range getting killed to the ground each winter. Stems with flowers cut and brought inside in a vase will last nicely for 5 to 6 days.

Plants should be located in the full sun for best flowering. You may pinch new growth as it emerges to generate more branch tips. When new shoots resulting from this pinching have two or three nodes pinch again. Continue this until you see flower buds developing and then stop pinching. You will enjoy many more flowers with this technique. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Plants serve as butterfly nectar sources.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

'Erika' Astilbe: Featured Plant of The Day

Astilbe x arendsii 'Erika'
    Astilbe,  False Spirea

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 9A
Height    24" to 30" / 60cm to 75cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Irregular or sprawling
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are fragrant, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Astilbes vary in size, bloom shape, bloom color, bloom time and leaf color.  Although frequently categorized as a shade plant, they can grow in full sun in moderate climates, but require a rich, moist, acidic soil and some protection in the warmer climates.   The flower heads last longer if they are planted to avoid the afternoon sun.  Cultivars Cattleya, Granat, and White Gloria have glorious bloom heads, and Fanal has dark bronze foliage.  Fluffy spikes of colorful, elegant and lacy foliage occur during June and July, for the most part.  Astilbes are excellent when used in flower arrangements, either fresh or dried.

'Erika' is somewhat unique with its long, slim, compact trusses and bronze foliage.

'Petite Pearl Fairy' Heuchera: Featured Plant of The Day

Heuchera 'Petite Pearl Fairy'
    Alumroot,  Coral Bells

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 9A
Height    2" to 3" / 5cm to 8cm
Spread    10" to 12" / 25cm to 30cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green and silvery
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
These herbaceous, evergreen, perennial herbs are increasing in popularity due to the fact that newer varieties of Heucheras offer taller and larger flowers, ruffled foliage and increased hardiness to heat, humidity and cold.  Heucheras are already valued for their lovely, varied foliage and striking, bell-shaped  flowers in various colors.  Their stalks spike up from the center of the plant and vary in height.

When planting, make sure crowns are just above the soil level.  Keep plants moist, but well-drained, and mulch before the onset of cold weather.   It's highly unlikely that Heucheras will survive in clay.   In the South, Heucheras do best if planted in partial shade; if grown in cooler climates, the plant flowers longer if spent blossoms are removed.  Many Heucheras will attract both hummingbirds and bees.

'Petite Pearl Fairy' is a miniature Heuchera, growing only about 3" tall.  It looks wonderful in pots and rock gardens, as its small pink flowers emerge from its darker foliage.

Airplane Plant: Featuerd Plant of The Day

Crassula perfoliata var. falcata 

Airplane Plant,  Scarlet Paintbrush,  Sickle Plant

Type    Perennial, succulent
Hardy range    9A to 11
Height    24" to 30" / 60cm to 75cm
Growth rate    Average
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Full sun
Persistence    Evergreen

Bloom Color    Red
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are fragrant.

 Environment
This plant tolerates drought.
This plant will grow in dry to moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Silvery
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
During winter months, water only to keep shoots from shriveling.

Tussock Bellfower 'Blue Uniform': Featured Plant of The Day

Campanula carpatica 'Blue Uniform'
    Tussock Bellfower,  Carpathian Bellflower,  Carpathian Harebell

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    4A to 8B
Height    6" to 9" / 15cm to 23cm
Spread    10" to 12" / 25cm to 30cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Spreading or horizontal
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Blue
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is a neutral to slightly alkaline (6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green

This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Campanula will not do well in dry or wet soils or if humidity is high.  As long as there is adequate drainage, this herbaceous plant will easily spread to show off its numerous bell-shaped flowers.  It's a good idea to remove spent flower heads for continuous blooming.

Japanese Stewartia: Featured Plant of The Day

Stewartia pseudocamellia

Japanese Stewartia

Type Tree, woody plant

Hardy range 4B to 7B

Height 25' to 40' / 7.60m to 12.20m

Spread 15' to 20' / 4.60m to 6.00m

Growth rate Slow

Form Oval and pyramidal

Exposure Full shade to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color White

Bloom Time Summer

The flowers are showy.

Environment This plant tolerates drought and occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in very dry to occasionally wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.

Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple, red and yellow
This plant has attractive fall colors.

Culture Notes Japanese Stewartia is probably the most well known and most available of the Stewartias. Most trees are seen growing in partial shade but with occasional irrigation in dry summers or an extensive mulched area around the tree they can do well in full sun. An acid soil pH is preferably to an alkaline pH. Trees develop chlorosis in soil with a pH greater that about 7. Most trees grow with a central trunk straight up into the canopy unless the tree was improperly topped in the nursery. Most lateral branches stay smaller than the trunk so they develop good attachment to the trunk without pruning.
Transplant as a small tree from a field nursery in early spring or from a container of any size at any time. Plants flower in the early summer when few other plants are in flower. Can be trained to a single leader and used as a street tree or in a parking lot island or buffer strip. Provide a loose, acid soil for best performance. I (Dr. Gilman) have seen plants in full sun in zone 7 in hard clay without irrigation perform nicely.

Use as a street tree This plant can be grown as a multi-trunk tree for use in highway median strips and in landscapes, or can be used as a street tree where there is not a need for tall-vehicle clearance beneath the crown. The small stature and low, spreading, branching habit makes pruning for vehicular clearance difficult unless it is properly trained from an early age to develop one main trunk. The effort required initially to train this tree for street tree use, however, may be offset by its advantages.

Maintain adequate mulch area Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.

Tree establishment specifications Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly. Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.

Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.

In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.

In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.

Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.

Please feel free to comment on any post at any time all feedback is welcome and we’d love to hear it.

'Ruffled Ruby' Daylily: Featured Plant of The Day

Hemerocallis x 'Ruffled Ruby'

Daylily

Type Perennial

Hardy range 3A to 10A

Height 24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm

Spread 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m

Growth rate Fast

Form Irregular or sprawling and upright or erect

Exposure Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Persistence Deciduous

Bloom Color Red

Bloom Time Summer


The flowers are very showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment This plant tolerates drought.This plant will grow in moist soil. Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay. The pH preference is an acidic to neutral (less than 6.8 to 7.2) soil.
Leaf Color Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Planting And Establishing Shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.

Lavender Globe Lily: Featured Plant of The Day

Allium tanguticum
    Lavender Globe Lily

Type    Biennial, perennial
Hardy range    3A to 7A
Height    8" to 16" / 20cm to 40cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color    Lavender
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy or sandy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green

Culture Notes
A. tanguticum is put to good use when used as an ornamental or edging plant.  Its flat, linear leaves are shorter than the stems, thus showing off the sphere-shaped blooms.

White Calla Lily: Featured Plant of The Day

Zantedeschia aethiopica     syn. Zantedeschia africana
    White Calla Lily

Type    Perennial
Hardy range    8A to 10B
Height    24" to 36" / 60cm to 90cm
Spread    12" to 24" / 30cm to 60cm
Growth rate    Fast
Form    Upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    White
Bloom Time    Spring and Summer

The flowers are fragrant, showy and suitable for cut flowers.

Environment
This plant tolerates occasional wetness.
This plant will grow in moist to wet soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy.
The pH preference is  a neutral soil.

Leaf Color    Green
This plant has attractive foliage.

Culture Notes
Prefers partial shade at midday.  Likes moist soil that is loamy.  Will tolerate swampy conditions.  Planting in the shallow water of a pond or along a stream is recommended.  Propagate by offsets in late fall or by seeds.  Grow as a non-hardy plant north of zone 8b.

'Armada' Rose Featured Plant of The Day

Rosa x 'Armada'
    Rose

Type    Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range    3B to 10B
Height    36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Spread    36" to 4' / 90cm to 1.20m
Growth rate    Average
Form    Rounded and upright or erect
Exposure    Partial shade or partial sun to full sun
Persistence    Deciduous

Bloom Color    Pink
Bloom Time    Summer

The flowers are fragrant, very showy, suitable for cut flowers and suitable for dried flowers.

Environment
This plant will grow in moist soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.

Leaf Color    Green
Fall Color    No change in fall color

Culture Notes
Rose is the national flower. Depending on the cultivar, the growing attributes of roses vary widely.  Check with your nursery as to the specific attributes and growing requirements for your particular rose.

The rose is an essential garden element and will prosper if proper fertilizing, pruning and spraying are done on a regular basis. Planting as bare root plants in the spring or early summer is recommended, as it will not disturb the growth cycle. Roses need to be actively growing in order to flower. Place in the open in a well-drained soil where they receive plenty of sun light. Plant roses far enough apart so you can prune and treat for insect and disease problems adequately. If you can choose a spot with a soil pH around 6.5, this is ideal.

A 2-3 inch deep cover of mulch is needed to keep the soil cool in the summer, retain moisture and keep the plant warm in the winter months. Plant in full or partial sun; morning sun is best. Soil should be rich in organic material such as peat moss, rotted manure, leaf mold or compost. Allow adequate spacing between plants for better air circulation and to lessen the spread of disease.  Do not plant near tree roots as they can deprive the plant of necessary moisture and nutrients.

Winter protection depends on the climate and the location of the garden. In most locations that receive freezing temperatures, stop fertilizing in mid to late summer so the plant slows down its growth before the first freeze. After the first few cold snaps below freezing, mound soil to about 12 inches up the stems and cut back any canes greater than about 3 to 4 feet long. Some people tie the stems together to keep them from whipping around in the wind. You may also cover the soil mound with mulch to help maintain a constant temperature all winter long. This is not necessary in the warmest portion of the hardiness range. Roses may be propagated by root cuttings, budding, or grafting.

This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.

Planting and establishing shrubs

The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep.  Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery.  In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off.  The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider.  In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole.  Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.

Weed suppression during establishment is essential.  Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth.  Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk.  If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer.   This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry.  Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.  Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.