Viburnum plicatum 'Sawtooth'
Doublefile Viburnum, Japanese Snowball Viburnum
Doublefile Viburnum, Japanese Snowball Viburnum
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 5B to 8B
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 5B to 8B
Height 10' to 15' / 3.00m to 4.60m
Spread 15' to 25' / 4.60m to 7.60m
Growth rate Average
Form Rounded and spreading or horizontal
Exposure Partial shade or partial sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color White
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates some drought and some salt.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to slightly alkaline (less than 6.8 to 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green
Fall Color Purple and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.
Fall Color Purple and red
This plant has attractive foliage and attractive fall colors.
Culture Notes
Japanese Snowball grows well in sun to partial shade and any moist soil. The plant transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and grows to a mature height and spread of 8 to 10 feet in many landscapes, but can get larger, especially in spread. The white flowers occur in ball-shaped clusters produced in late spring. Foliage takes on a dark maroon color in September and October.
This plant is sterile and produces no fruit. In contrast to the var. tomentosum, flowers hang from the branches in a more-or-less random fashion.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Japanese Snowball grows well in sun to partial shade and any moist soil. The plant transplants well, has a moderate growth rate and grows to a mature height and spread of 8 to 10 feet in many landscapes, but can get larger, especially in spread. The white flowers occur in ball-shaped clusters produced in late spring. Foliage takes on a dark maroon color in September and October.
This plant is sterile and produces no fruit. In contrast to the var. tomentosum, flowers hang from the branches in a more-or-less random fashion.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
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