Weigela florida 'Brigela (French Lace™)'
Old Fashioned Weigela, Rose Weigela
Type Shrub, woody plant
Hardy range 4B to 8A
Height 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Spread 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Slow
Form Rounded, upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Hardy range 4B to 8A
Height 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Spread 24" to 4' / 60cm to 1.20m
Growth rate Slow
Form Rounded, upright or erect and vase shaped
Exposure Full sun
Persistence Deciduous
Bloom Color Red
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Bloom Time Spring
The flowers are very showy.
Environment
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
This plant tolerates some drought.
This plant will grow in dry soil.
Suitable soil is well-drained/loamy, sandy or clay.
The pH preference is an acidic to alkaline (less than 6.8 to more than 7.7) soil.
Leaf Color Green, variegated and yellow
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Fall Color No change in fall color
This plant has attractive foliage.
Culture Notes
Weigela grows best in a sunny location and moist soil. Shaded plants are straggly. Weigela also dislikes crowding. The growth rate is moderate and the shrub transplants well, reaching a mature height and spread of only 2 to 4 feet. Some annual dieback and winter injury make annual pruning necessary. It is best to perform any needed pruning immediately after they have flowered. Canadian cultivars (the so called Dance cultivars) are the most cold hardy. Plants suffer in the deep south eastern part of the US. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Weigela grows best in a sunny location and moist soil. Shaded plants are straggly. Weigela also dislikes crowding. The growth rate is moderate and the shrub transplants well, reaching a mature height and spread of only 2 to 4 feet. Some annual dieback and winter injury make annual pruning necessary. It is best to perform any needed pruning immediately after they have flowered. Canadian cultivars (the so called Dance cultivars) are the most cold hardy. Plants suffer in the deep south eastern part of the US. This plant is considered mostly allergy free and causes little or no allergy problems in most people.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
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